Climbs 165
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Nose To The Wall Trying To Flash A New Route © Sam Marks

Crag features

A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Approach notes

see NE England guide book

No Access Issues

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.

There are reports of some belaying stakes having been installed some way back from the crag. A second rigging rope is recommended and caution is advised in respect of any stakes.

Warning, April 2016 - There is a significant rift above the buttress at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" in the vicinity of the route Never So Far. There is a consensus that this fault line is relatively new and may indicate that the buttress is at risk of peeling away from the escarpment.

April 2016 - Please be aware of potentially serious instability at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" above and to the left of the stone wall below the crag and in the vicinity of "Never So Far". There is a deep rift developing a couple of metres back from the cliff top and it appears that this buttress may be about to peel away.
Mike Conlon - 26/Apr/16
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

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