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Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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The Fascist and Me © Liam Postlethwaite

Crag features

For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).

Approach notes

Tidal on routes East of Romany; non-tidal elsewhere.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

No Climbing due to nesting Choughs  between "The Energy Funnel’ to ‘Enter the goat’ inclusive plus the traverse line,  ‘Old Dog, New Tricks’.

The main abseil approach past "The Hole" can be used in 2020 but please do not hang around for longer than necessary to avoid disturbing nesting birds.

The route "The Hole", being the easiest route out of Trevallen,  should only be climbed as an emergency escape.  RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 2020

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
Has anyone been up Fulmar Pants recently?? has the second pitch altered significantly since the guide books were written? the crack is shattered and falling apart, the hand traverse is unprotectable and the move up to the easy finishing corner is desperate and loose. Should have guessed something was up by all the gear left behind to allow retreat. A warning should be added to let any body know they are in for a desperate time with v serious consequences if you come off the hand traverse ie. don't bother..
Paul Bowen - 28/Aug/07
Don't make the mistake we made on our first visit to Trevallen, which was to abseil on our twin 9mm's, assuming that we'd be alright to pull them down after us... Ho ho. They got stuck in the erosion 'gully' by the main abseil point, and it took a good hour of awkward scrambling to get to St.Govan's and up the descent there (this traverse to St.Govan's can be impossible if the tides are wrong). TAKE A SEPARATE AB ROPE!!!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

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