The Fascist and Me © Liam Postlethwaite
For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).
Tidal on routes East of Romany; non-tidal elsewhere.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
No Climbing due to nesting Choughs between "The Energy Funnel’ to ‘Enter the goat’ inclusive plus the traverse line, ‘Old Dog, New Tricks’.
The main abseil approach past "The Hole" can be used in 2020 but please do not hang around for longer than necessary to avoid disturbing nesting birds.
The route "The Hole", being the easiest route out of Trevallen, should only be climbed as an emergency escape. RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 2020
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