Rockfax Description
A majestic climb which provides an excellent introduction to Pembroke E4s. It was traditionally climbed in two pitches with a belay at the break on the left. Now most people link them into one long pitch due to the difficulty of belaying the initial move of the old pitch 2. Step off the monster pebble and climb a short groove and crack to the break. Move right and pull up into a leftwards rising line of holds. Follow this to its end then make a tricky pull up above and continue to the small cave (possible belay). Arrange some gear above then swing right and climb the shiny grey slab - hard at first but it gets easier. Continue up the steep wall above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 20/Jun/1981.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke E4s (ish)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GDes | 8 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Doing it in 1 pitch seems to make more sense. Put in a bunch of runners at the ledge with long slings and the ropes run fine. The crux on the 1st pitch is not easy! brilliant route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Doing it in 1 pitch seems to make more sense. Put in a bunch of runners at the ledge with long slings and the ropes run fine. The crux on the 1st pitch is not easy! brilliant route |
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| Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Doing it in one pitch is a far better option. You'll only get rope drag if you don't manage your ropes properly. Once on the jug of the second pitch you should spend less than 30 seconds on the remainder! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Doing it in one pitch is a far better option. You'll only get rope drag if you don't manage your ropes properly. Once on the jug of the second pitch you should spend less than 30 seconds on the remainder! |
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| Paz | 28 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: The over riding issue would be the tide coming in. But you don't get any drag if you extend the anchors and you get away from the stench of bird shit. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The over riding issue would be the tide coming in. But you don't get any drag if you extend the anchors and you get away from the stench of bird shit. |
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| UKB Shark | 18 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: I ran it together as it seemed the best thing to do and don't remember any problems | βeta? | |
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βeta: I ran it together as it seemed the best thing to do and don't remember any problems |
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| Adam Lincoln | 18 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: You would get pretty bad rope drag | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: You would get pretty bad rope drag |
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| Paz | 4 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: I've yet to do it but (tide allowing) is it not a bad idea to run the two pitches together, makes it a bit safer? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I've yet to do it but (tide allowing) is it not a bad idea to run the two pitches together, makes it a bit safer? |
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| craig h | 3 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: The second pitch is probably more serious than the 1st, its quite run out initially and should be respected as much as the 1st pitch | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The second pitch is probably more serious than the 1st, its quite run out initially and should be respected as much as the 1st pitch |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff
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Hyperspace
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)