UKC

Climbs 137
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

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Grant resting casually just after the crux © JoeCoxson

Crag features

The Trewavas area offers some of the most enjoyable and accessible climbing on Cornwall's South Coast. Routes are mainly single pitch, up to 20m in length, and low to middle-grade but with several harder lines. Trewavas granite is finer-grained than that of the Land's End Peninsula. Cracks in the rock can sometimes be disconcertingly blind but protection is ample. The rock is excellent throughout, although there is some loose rock in places at sea level. The cliffs are generally steep and the climbing can be strenuous. Most climbs lie high above the sea on steep-sided buttresses, although there are some worthwhile climbs at sea level. Attractive surroundings, a sunny outlook, and fine sea views are compulsory; all of which make Trewavas one of the most popular venues in West Cornwall.

Approach notes

From the A394 Penzance to Helston road, turn onto the minor road signed to Rinsey at the village of Ashton. Follow the signs to Rinsey hamlet and take a track to the National Trust car park. Follow the coast path down to an old mine building and take the path that gently climbs up the hill (not the coast path). Follow the path which skirts walls and open ground past another cluster of old mine buildings. The crags are located near here.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Massive landslide down the gully leading to Dennis, Brown Sugar etc. Sometime between September 2012 & Jan 2013. Not sure how this may have affected the approach or the route 'Dennis', but might be worth waiting for it to stabilise before heading down the gully.
Señor Último - 30/Dec/12
We had our car broken into at the national trust car park, somebody nicely hammered a screwdriver or similar through the door skin above the locks on both side of the car and found a bag under the passengers seat. The police informed me that this is not an unusual occurrence for this car park! Please Beware.
Wotsit - 25/Jan/09
A great little crag, which can be quite sheltered and climbable when wind and/or tides make places like Chair Ladder unwelcoming. A lot of the routes are better than the star ratings might suggest (though I haven 't got the latest guide). A particluar gem for the modest climber is Mascara (VS) which has no stars in my book but is really good value
Rog Wilko - 19/Aug/08
South Groove - a lot of E1 for your money ! Williams's Chimney on the E face - only HVS because the chimney is all loose - think light thoughts...
uncle nick - 28/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

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