This is a scramble with a tricky initial pitch. Start left of Grooved Arete, and to the right of North Gully, below a polished corner.
1) 20m. Scurry up the corner to a break and traverse right to a block belay on the arete.
2) 30m. Head up and right behind the block and then back left into a groove directly above the stance. Move left onto a rib and head up following the left side of the rib to a grassy ledge.
3) 30m. The route becomes more indistinct here and you can climb up in a variety of places but generally trending up and left to a large terrace. Most people escape left along the terrace and into North Gully and make their way to the summit. © Rockfax