UKC

165m.

Rockfax Description
This is a scrambling variation to Overlapping Ridge Route. This variation avoids the Yellow Slab and Thompson's Chimney. The scramble offers sustained climbing with good rock and plenty of opportunity for belays. Its initial pitch is best avoided in damp conditions. Follow Heather Terrace to below the South Gully. Start 5m right of South Gully and 10m left of where 'FPR' scratched into the rock below a clean V-groove. Take care since 'FPR' is also etched deeply at the base of Pinnacle Rib Route to confuse matters.
1) Climb the V-groove which is hard and sustained until about half way up - here you can escape onto the right rib. Climb this to a ledge which allows you to regain the groove which is then followed to its top.
2) From the belay at the top of the groove, trend up and right over polished rock, going left of a perched block, and then heading up to the infamous pinnacle.
3) The Yellow Slab goes up behind this. For this version, go right to an open groove and climb this trending left at the top to reach easier ground.
4) Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a shoulder below and left of the cleft of Thompson's Chimney. Avoid this by skirting right on an easier near-walking route that zig-zags to the top of the chimney and the Eastern Terrace traversing path. Follow this until under the summit.
5) Either take the short hand-crack up to the summit, or head left to where Little and North Gullies goes up and right on a slab to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Scramblers' variant of Pinnacle Rib, avoiding the Yellow Slabs and Thompson's Chimney.

Ticklists

Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles

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Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
High none
Mid none
Low none
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Gully Ridge

Grade: M ***
(Glyder Fach)

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