At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though. Read more
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 149m a.s.l
Al Rosier on Fairies Wear Boots (6c+) at Tyle y Coch © Rob McAllister
Tyle y Coch quarry is set in a pleasant quiet dell on the hillside between Abercarn and Newbridge. It has a sheer main wall of quality sandstone plus another wall with some pleasant easier offerings.
The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.
The quarry gets some morning sun but there is a dense tree canopy. Seepage does occur and the Main Wall takes time to dry out; once dry the Main Wall is steep enough to allow climbing in the rain,
Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.
Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry.
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