UKC

Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 259m a.s.l
Faces NW

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The Warm Down Area. © deepstar

Crag features

A short limestone crag, hidden from view, some lower grade bouldering problems, some highballs and five short lines, bolted at the top, presumably for top-roping school groups.also a  four chains at top of climbs in the pit, which now features glued holds at it's base.

Great place for taking small children(under 10's) and dogs(when farm animals aren't about).

Approach notes

Park by the roadside on Ubley Warren Drive (usually other cars with dog walkers), between two kissing gates. Head for the SE footpath into the nature reserve. Follow this path directly uphill across scrub and the rocks will be at the top of the hill. They are hidden from view from the road but a straight line walking approx 5 mins from this gate will lead you stright there.

Previous directions have been updated as follows:

There is a small car park at grid reference 505557 that will accomodate about 7 cars. Follow the path SE from the car park. Follow the path until you reach the edge of Ubley Warren woods, follow the wall keeping it to your left until you cross a stile and find the rocks.

Took a small group of university students here and spent a good half-day walking up and down some of the easier problems. A little muddy underfoot after a day of drizzle, but dry rock prevailed. We didn't find the topo too useful so just made up our own routes. Plenty of bouldering to be had regardless.
Plume - 27/Nov/18
Good skills
The Pylon King - 15/May/13
I made some enquiries from an instructor at Charterhouse Activity Centre and was told that as this was on CROW land climbing was not prohibited(but caving was Hee Hee!)
deepstar - 13/May/13
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