A Unique and interesting Mendip craglet. Ancient mineral extraction has left behind small featured limestone trenches, perfect for easy grade bouldering. Some faces are a little highball and a steady solo approach is needed. This scenic nature reserve is very family friendly. Enjoy it with respect.
In the Pit (highest wall) local outdoor centre has installed toprope anchors and glued on holds. Some of the routes here are very polished.
The outcrops have been climbed on for years, many variations and eliminates have been climbed. If you think you are doing the last great problem, you are probably not.
Ubley Warren has not been very well documented over the years mostly because it was "only bouldering"!
It has finally got some deserved attention in the 2021 Esoteric Bouldering in the Bristol region guide. The ticklist has been brought in to line with this guide. (There is no need to add eliminates to the list, there are many along with sit starts that bring nothing to the party)
As an SSI owned by Somerset Wildlife Trust and managed by Mendip AONB, the rakes are also part of a scheduled monument, as far as i have been able to ascertain, climbing is NOT permitted (and any damage subject to a potentially unlimited fine) , even if it "appears" to be tolerated. Earlier bolts chopped were recently replaced illegally with chains with stringers to allow unlimited damaging top roping -evidence suggesting the nearby commercial Charterhouse Outdoor Centre responsible. Rather appalled that this is encouraged on this aite, the BMC and in any commercial guidebook other than for purely historical reasons.
Park by the roadside on Ubley Warren Drive (usually other cars with dog walkers), between two kissing gates. Head for the Easterly footpath into the nature reserve. Follow this path directly uphill across scrub and the rocks will be at the top of the hill. They are hidden from view from the road but a straight line walking approx 5 mins from this gate will lead you straight there probably finding the warm up rocks first. The longest gully of rocks includes the pit, trench and warm up rock
Alternatively there is a small car park at grid reference 505557 that will accomodate about 7 cars. Follow the path S from the car park. Follow the path until you reach the edge of Ubley Warren woods, follow the wall keeping it to your left until you cross a stile and find the warm down/Ivy rocks.