45m, 2 pitches.
An excellent route that manages to gain and cross Captain Oates at a surprisingly amenable standard. Low in the grade. Start at sea level on the ledges at the bottom of the big slab left of the sea cave. The route was ascended in three pitches with a belay in Captain Oates on the first ascent, but it is best climbed in two pitches as described.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the easy groove to spikes and ledges.
2) 5c, 25m. Pull steeply through the black bulge on the right and into a corner. An exposed swing right on a small stripey ledge gains Captain Oates, then move up right under the roof to gain a groove-line. Follow this, chimneying to the top.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the easy groove to spikes and ledges.
2) 5c, 25m. Pull steeply through the black bulge on the right and into a corner. An exposed swing right on a small stripey ledge gains Captain Oates, then move up right under the roof to gain a groove-line. Follow this, chimneying to the top.
FA. George Smith, Crispin Waddy 14/May/2019.
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Guidebooks for Uig Sea Cliffs North - Crowlista
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Route of Interest
Shot in the Dark
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Uig Sea Cliffs North - Crowlista)