Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1810m a.s.l
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Untersberg at dawn. © tjekel

Crag features

Untersberg is a massive karst plateau with a wide variety of faces mainly south and east-facing, making it perfect for early and late season climbs. Routes span the whole climbing history of the area: early but still good classics (Südwand, Barthkamin, 1904), classic lines from the thirties (2*Hinterstoisser/Kurz, Ostwandverschneidung), technoroutes like the Schertle pillar, bold creations of the new free climbing generation of the early 80's, modern plaisier climbs and multi-pitch sport test pieces by the likes of the Huber brothers and Ines Papert.

Rock is mostly very solid and sometimes sharp limestone of wonderful quality that tends to deteriorate for the final one or two pitches of the routes.

Berchtesgadener Hochthron requires a 2-hour approach and 800-1000 vertical meters to reach a host of classics and modern sport routes, with a alpine club hut on top of the mountain.

Salzburger Hochthron is a completely different proposition, a popular and easily accessible cable-car mountain on the border of Austria and Germany with lots of short well-bolted multi-pitch climbs. These are accessible only by abseil, so it is necessary to be certain of finishing a climb before starting it.

Approach notes

Cable valley station is in Sankt Leonhard. It is possible to stay in the Zeppezauer Haus (hut) just beneath the upper cable car station.

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Climbs at this crag

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