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Climbs 65
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 438m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Ben Tetler on the FA of The Last Mohican © Chris Tan

Crag features

Not the most prepossessing of quarries although the best of the routes are worth calling in for. The place is only a few minutes from the road, and it also gets the morning sun. Following CRoW, the quarry is now on open access land and has a good collection of clean climbs, many of which follow strong lines. Get them done and help keep the place in a decent condition.

With its east-facing aspect the cliff gets the sun until early afternoon, and as such is a good venue for early risers. Some sections of the quarry take drainage (or even spout impressive waterfalls) and are inclined to be sandy after rain, taking several days to come into prime condition. Fortunately several of the buttresses jut forward enough to stay dry, the great classic of Renaissance (E4) is especially notable in this respect so you have no excuse for not calling in and getting it done.

Approach notes

The quarry is situated above the A635 Holmfirth to Greenfield road, which is still known as the 'Isle of Skye road' after a long-gone pub. There is parking for several cars in a lay-by on the opposite side of the road to the farm just downhill from the gated track that leads up into the quarry.

Approach time: 5 mins

Restricted Access

'Private Land' signs have appeared at some points along the boundary with the A635 road which has led to some confusion over whether access is permitted or not. This land is designated as Open Access and the public have a full legal right to access is for recreation on foot, including climbing. Please keep dogs on a lead to help avoid future difficulties.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
Western Grit (2003)
Visited after a dry spell, called in at the House to ask permission as per the Over the moors guide..no problem. All the routes we climbed were quality if a little dirty-deserved more traffic.
bwestwood - 12/May/18
Turtle suffered from rockfall approx May 2013 - possibly E3 5c now
ste_d - 18/Jul/13
Shame this place is more of a dumping ground, not sure what the 12 or so propane cylinders are there for (maybe just to liven up the place).
Jonathan Hall - 28/Sep/11
Nice to see Renaissance upgraded to 6b at last. Would-be heroes shouldn't be put off however, as the weight of the grade is in the traverse left - once there the arete is quite steady if you like exposure. And the gear...well, that'd be telling.
Al Barker - 19/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
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