UKC

Climbs 111
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

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Les Orgyies © Rog Wilko

Crag features

This granite crag is rather reminiscent of Dewerstone, and is pleasantly sited. It gets a lot of sun, though the foot of the crag is well-shaded by trees. It has about 80 routes up to 40m long and with a wide spread of grades. Well bolted. As the names of routes are not on the rock a guide or topo is needed. You can pick up a topo at the tabac in the village of Toutry which lies about three miles north of Vieux Chateau.

 

The 2003 Jingo-Wobbly Guidebook (Bourgogne a vue) contains a significant number of errors including incorrect lines, grades and a large number of incorrect/made up names. I have included some of the Jingo-Wobbly names in brackets after the correct name. Please try to use the correct route name where possible to avoid adding duplicated climbs.

Approach notes

Lies about 10 miles east of Avallon (which in turn lies about 20 miles SE of Auxerre). The village of Vieux Chateau lies between the A6 autoroute to the north and the RN6 to the south. The crag, known locally as Roches de Ste. Catherine, is clearly signed from the centre of the village. It lies on the sunny north side of the River Serein valley and is reached by a circuitous path from the car park.

Most of the routes have names and grades painted at the bottom. These often don't agree with the Jingo Wobbly guide, though the grades on the rock seem far more accurate than those in the book (of 2003 vintage) which seem often very under graded. There are far more routes than are listed here or in the book.
ashaughnessy - 09/Sep/15
A great little crag, I also said feels like the Dewerstone as we walked down, only bigger. It is well described in the Jingo Wobbly (2014) France rock 1.
Norman_P_W - 24/Jul/15
Hi All, there is a new version of Jingo Wobbly guide book that pretty much covers the place. I have the original version of the JW guide if anyone wants it.
paul_j_burgess - 09/Jun/14
There are a number of sectors that aren't included in the Jingo Wobbly Bourgogne guide, to the right of the main section. In addition, the names and grades sometimes don't match between the local topo and the JW guide. Top quality granite crag, and not too much of a detour off the A6 for those passing through the area.
James Gilbert - 11/Oct/10
While we didn't manage to climb here this time because of awful weather, we expect to be back. We bought the topo, but couldn't see in it a number of the routes listed above. Not sure why.
Rog Wilko - 18/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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