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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A direct and pumpy version of Disintegration with no real crux moves, but plenty of hard ones. A very good route. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 09/May/1996.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Spanish crew 2018

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kris suriyo 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1WK1q4m3A&list=UUudGMOX3fYHtjKktRswz0Mw
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1WK1q4m3A&list=UUudGMOX3fYHtjKktRswz0Mw
John_Beesley 10 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Medium sized Beta stick was fine for ridiculously high first bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Medium sized Beta stick was fine for ridiculously high first bolt.
J1_TOV 21 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Extra long clip-stick required for bolt 1, or come in from million watt marshalls on the left for an easy start (will create rope drag if you clip the low bolt but will save your ankles)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Extra long clip-stick required for bolt 1, or come in from million watt marshalls on the left for an easy start (will create rope drag if you clip the low bolt but will save your ankles)
eddieclimb 27 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: You are so right Andy on the re-bolt I tried saskatchewan and bailed the hard start protected by a drilled peg ...maybe loss of holds or maybe I was having a poor non-committing day... as Arnie says "I'll be back"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You are so right Andy on the re-bolt I tried saskatchewan and bailed the hard start protected by a drilled peg ...maybe loss of holds or maybe I was having a poor non-committing day... as Arnie says "I'll be back"
Climber_Bill 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant stamina climbing. Good moves all the way, with nothing too hard. Nice change of style after the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant stamina climbing. Good moves all the way, with nothing too hard. Nice change of style after the roof.
Ben Stokes 10 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing, steady for the grade, and a no-hands rest when you are most likely to need it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing, steady for the grade, and a no-hands rest when you are most likely to need it.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: awesome line which once the winter drainage has gone is one of the best on portland, when will the masses realise the host of good routes they are missing in this part of the cove? Hopefully never!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: awesome line which once the winter drainage has gone is one of the best on portland, when will the masses realise the host of good routes they are missing in this part of the cove? Hopefully never!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Outside the Gate

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)

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