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Climbs 137
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 141m a.s.l
Faces W

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Warton Crag Upper © chris taylor

Crag features

Good short routes, and some superb bouldering in the V1 to V7 range with one hard (V11) traverse.

Approach notes

This crag is very hard to find the first (or even the second or third) time. It is best reached from the highest point on the Warton to Crag Foot road (GR SD487724). There is a five bar gate (memorial sign on wall adjacent) on the NE side of the road with a small parking spot about 80 metres NW. Follow the track through the gate till it peters out near two old baths. Ignore path continuing to a prominent gate in the same line. Instead, bear right towards a fence about 100m away. From the fence corner go left up a grassy sward to cross a stile through another barbed wire fence. The path leads quickly to a rocky outcrop (bit of wall visible on your right). Go right above the outcrop and contour for about 80m to find a small but well-worn path through dense scrub on your left. This path emerges soon on more open terrain. Bear left and head through some scruffy scrub to find the crag skulking in some trees.

Someone's been moving s%&t around at Warton, like they own the place. Please don't. I noticed someone has moved rocks around at Pinnacle Crag. Ok... So, now the path everyone uses is covered in big blocks, but no big deal - it was already uneven. However, up in the woods, there's a short crag with a couple of old bolts. Someone cut down a tree and used it and some earth to build themselves a flat landing. That tree was one of very few Lancaster Whitebeam left - a rare and endangered species of tree, that some oaf boulderer numpty, probably wearing a fluorescent beany, has made even rarer and more endangered through their ignorance. We don't care about you're "amazing send"; we do care about you f***ing the place up. So, if you can't do the route without destroying trees and plants and paths, don't f****ng climb the route! And, if you want to do some "crag maintenance", try talking to the ranger and the BMC first, rather than screwing around with no knowledge.
C Witter - 24/Jul/16
I've found the Aviary Walls, and the other small buttresses. From the Pinnacle, head downhill, into the woods, about a 2 or 3min walk. There are a few climbs that are good (e.g. Cutting Edge, VS) but, apart from the well-frequented Black Buttress, everything's a bit overgrown, especially at the top.
C Witter - 12/May/16
Did anyone find Aviary Wall? I missed it when I went for a half-hearted search. I went past plum buttress to the Pinnacle. Then I carried on, climbed over a barbed wire fence, went some way before ending up in a big grassy opening surrounded by briars, with a tiny (4ft) outcrop at the top. Any clues much appreciated!
C Witter - 22/Jul/15
does anyone know the climb between deadwood crack and lone tree gully. It is a really nice climb up the rib with good gear on small wires.
daviesxxx - 16/Jun/11
In between the dross there are some great lines worth seeking out on Plum Buttress. Good winters afternoon venue.
lozzer - 11/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

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