Altitude 38m a.s.l
must buy a mat © kitch01
The first of the Warton crags, with possibly the shortest walk-in in climbing history making it a very convenient venue for a short/after work session. The rock is generally solid, though some areas have ivy or small plants growing on them. Routes from Diff to E2 and tree belays are abundant at the top of the crag above most routes. The crag sees some group use so beware of polish on easier routes and on the low-level traverse.
*Over the last decade, the crag became increasingly overgrown both at the base and the top-outs of many routes, however local climbers have been making a concerted effort to return the crag to its former glory. All routes between Pete's Route and Townie have recently received a makeover with much of the vegetation and some loose blocks removed (Mar 2021). This facelift is ongoing and would benefit from increased traffic on the routes so thanks for visiting!
Plum routes are The Leaning Tower (VS 4c), The Great Flake (VS 4c) and Quasimodo (E2 5c). The low traverse is excellent at V3 and provides a great solo session for the partnerless climber. Avoid routes at the right-hand end when there are parked cars.
The descent for all routes on 'Top End' are to the left (uphill) following a path that will bring you back to the main footpath or by abseiling off the large tree above The Leaning Tower (Static & Mallion added Mar 21). Exiting routes to the right of Top of the Town requires some care with an airy step around a wall. All top-outs in the car park area have sadly become terribly overgrown and many are currently considered bouldering problems on UKC despite the trad grades given in Lancashire Rock. Again, over time we hope to rectify this and will update/add the trad routes to the database once it is possible to top-out/descend from this end of the crag.
The crag is owned by Warton parish council, who are happy to allow year-round climbing provided that no litter is left.
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