UKC

From Almageller hut, folllow path to Zwischbergenpass. Turn left and follow the ridge, or drop down on the right after the first top to follow a scree slope or neve patch to below the steeper part of the ridge. The ridge gives fun blocky scrambling on sound rock and leads to a snow dome at just under 4000m. From here a short snow arete leads to the summit of the mountain. 1,200m from Almageller hut.

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User Date Notes
Rob_Morris1996 1 Nov Show βeta
βeta: Good bivvy spots 20mins above Almagellerhutte next to massive boulder. Palatial walled bivvy spot at the joch before the ridge.
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βeta: Good bivvy spots 20mins above Almagellerhutte next to massive boulder. Palatial walled bivvy spot at the joch before the ridge.
Zoomer 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Put your crampons on at the first patch, keep them on for the last rock tower and then the final snow arête. Final snow crest is bullet hard ice…no slip zone!
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βeta: Put your crampons on at the first patch, keep them on for the last rock tower and then the final snow arête. Final snow crest is bullet hard ice…no slip zone!
Rob Exile Ward 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: There's another hidden snow ridge needing axe and crampons after the final rocky tower, so keep your crampons on and don't stash them!
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βeta: There's another hidden snow ridge needing axe and crampons after the final rocky tower, so keep your crampons on and don't stash them!
HarryBD 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Got tempted off the ridge onto the snowfield on the left. Spent a lot of time descending choss. Hindsight says \'stay on the ridge\'.
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βeta: Got tempted off the ridge onto the snowfield on the left. Spent a lot of time descending choss. Hindsight says 'stay on the ridge'.

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High PD+
Mid PD+
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High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
North Ridge

Grade: PD ***
(Bec d'Epicoune)

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