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Rockfax Description
An audacious trip across the huge band of overhangs. One of the most exciting VSs around - but not an easy one. Start just right of a long low overhang.
1) 4b, 23m. Move up the wall until just below the narrowing overhang and go left to cracks that lead up the wall.
2) 4c, 20m. Traverse right and then move up to the large overhang. Step right and then move down a break to a stopping spot. Pull up the steep corner and make exposed moves right to a belay in a corner. Not a good pitch for an inexperienced second.
3) 4c, 20m. Move left and climb the wall to the left end of a slim overlap. Continue leftwards and then finish up the clean wall right of a rib to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, UK Lonely Leads, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Langdale 3 star VS round - Climb them all in a single day (2013 Guide), Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Jim Birkett First Ascents, UK Holiday Plans, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lakeland VS Walking Tour

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sjnh85 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Don't keep going down after the coffin on p2 or things get tricky. Class route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't keep going down after the coffin on p2 or things get tricky. Class route.
charliesdad 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A fist-sized handhold came away on the crux traverse. Be cautious.
 
Show beta
βeta: A fist-sized handhold came away on the crux traverse. Be cautious.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 112
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mickledore Grooves

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Scafell East Buttress)