One of the best routes here - steep and sustained. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove. A side-runner on the right may be found useful - more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:
There is a second pitch (4c) up the vegetated groove above and left of the belay, but this is best avoided.
There are two alternative starts. The original came in from the crack of Lone Tree Edge at an overall E1 5b for the route. The direct version tackles the fierce thin crack to the left at E2 6a. © Rockfax
FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967.
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