Loading Notifications...
38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best routes here - steep and sustained. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove. A side-runner on the right may be found useful - more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:
There is a second pitch (4c) up the vegetated groove above and left of the belay, but this is best avoided.
There are two alternative starts. The original came in from the crack of Lone Tree Edge at an overall E1 5b for the route. The direct version tackles the fierce thin crack to the left at E2 6a. © Rockfax

FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967.

Ticklists

The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate E1 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.

Logged Ascents

332 users have logged this
25 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 68
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Desperation

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)