UKC

Climbs 364
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

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The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Restricted Access

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call as to whether they think it is reliable or not. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 12 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Unusually, two pairs of Schedule 1 birds are nesting in Wilton 1 this year meaning an extened restriction to encompass Grey Wall, Red Wall and The Graveyard is neeed to prevent disturbane to these legally protected birds. Please avoid climbing on all routes from Sobeit to Graveyard Slab inclusive whilst the birds are nesting. 

The nests will be regularly monitored and as and when one or both nest sites are vacated, the restriction will be adjusted or lifted accordingly, so keep checking back for updates.

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