UKC

90m, 4 pitches. A fantastic sustained climb, covering impressive territory at a reasonable grade. Start up the bridging corner capped by a roof, about 10 metres right of King Kong. Climb the corner, good wires and a peg, to the roof (peg) and make a difficult move right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds more or less straight up the face, past a peg, heading towards a flake crack in a white wall. Peg belay on a ledge above the flake crack. Make a difficult move off the ledge, up and right towards a peg, and continue to a bulge with a downward pointing peg. The 6a crux follows, well protected by an in situ thread once you've got high enough to clip that. This section can be passed on the left at 5c. Traverse right into the start of the chimney and climb up for about 5 metres to a comfortable belay in a cave (ignore the deep, narrow cleft lower down the chimney, though it makes for a memorable belay if you so wish). Climb slightly up the chimney and transfer right onto the face in a sensationally exposed position. Aim for a break in the vegetation above, past a peg. Carefully scramble up the earthy section - roots and branches come in handy. Belay at the base of the final headwall. Follow either of the two crack lines in the headwall, the right hand one is 5c per the guidebook and the left hand one is 5a, with a short traverse right where vegetation blocks the way and a final layback to the top (although the 2007 guide book suggests going left at 5b (up a corner, swinging left to an arete and final mantel) rather than right).

C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol Crack School, The post lockdown local list, The Local Ticklist, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

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User Date Notes
Ariegeois 18 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous!
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βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous!
jamieevans 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well.
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βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well.
LucaC 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20
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βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 43
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Victorian Falls

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)
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