UKC

90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A challenging, varied and remarkably sustained climb that tackles the corners, walls, cracks and chimneys to the right of King Kong. Start at an overhang capped corner 10m right of King Kong.
1) 5c, 35m. Ascend the corner to the overhang (pegs) and then make a difficult move up right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds more or less straight up the face, past a peg, heading towards a conspicuous flake crack in a white wall and some good gear. Climb the awkward flake crack to a good ledge and belay.
2) 6a, 25m. Make a difficult move off of the belay ledge and then up rightwards towards a peg. Continue to a downward pointing peg in a bulge and make hard moves past a thread to reach the break under the overhang above (this section can be climbed on the left at 5c). Traverse right into the start of a chimney and climb up for 6m to a good belay in a cave.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb a little way up the chimney and then transfer right onto the face - very exposed. Head for a break in the vegetation above, passing a peg, and carefully scramble up the earthy bank and trees to eventually reach a belay at the base of the final headwall.
4) 5b, 10m. Gain a corner on the left of the white wall from a block. Ascend the corner until just below an overhang and reach left for holds on the arete from where some quick pulls gain the top. © Rockfax

C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bristol Crack School , The post lockdown local list , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Owen and Glyns classic ticks

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User Date Notes
Oscar Popels 14 May Show βeta
βeta: Currently in fantastic condition with new bolted belay and pegs throughout. Praise to the equipper!
βeta?
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βeta: Currently in fantastic condition with new bolted belay and pegs throughout. Praise to the equipper!
TomPearce63 28 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Crux thread is in good condition
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux thread is in good condition
Ariegeois 18 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous!
jamieevans 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well.
βeta?
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βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well.
LucaC 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hit and Run

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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