UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
Begin right of a loose blocky corner and make thin moves up until a deviation out right and back left regains the line and easier climbing to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The wall of quality rock to the left of the crack of 'cum black Johnny'. A relatively easy start leads to a high second clip up left before stepping back down to a no hands rest. Break up and right via a tricky sequence to reach the welcoming big hold. Final moves out left and up on flat holds leads to easy terrain above and a two bolt abseil station.

R M E Stanfield, G X Percival 15/Jul/2016.

Ticklists

7Bs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Pylon King 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The true line that I envisaged in 2017 and showed Stanners still hasn't been done. A big Dyno from sidepulls right next to the bolts at estimated F8a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The true line that I envisaged in 2017 and showed Stanners still hasn't been done. A big Dyno from sidepulls right next to the bolts at estimated F8a.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
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High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Route of Interest
Latest Craze

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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