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110m, 4 pitches. Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,4c,5a.
Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay traverse right all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.

J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Lower Wye, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS), Traverses of trady radness, Extreme Girdle

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User Date Notes
miriamclaire 28 Sep Show βeta
βeta: I led P1,2&3; Dave led P4. Didn't read the comments below and got surprised by the bees. Finished up Angel's Eye.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I led P1,2&3; Dave led P4. Didn't read the comments below and got surprised by the bees. Finished up Angel's Eye.
simoncov 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Beesnest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beesnest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
JGriffiths 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
Jonno30 12 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
badgerjockey 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)