A long and sustained traverse of the North Wall - very exposed at times and one of the most popular of its genre anywhere. The whole party must be competent at the grade with a good grasp of ropework. Start as for Left-hand Route.
1) 4b, 25m. Pitch 1 Left-hand Route.
2) 4b, 35m. From the iron spike move up and right to a bulge guarding the traverse line (peg). Keeping low, move around to another peg, then follow a line of footholds right with insitu gear high and low (mainly pegs). When the footholds finish at a gap, reach right for a peg, then move slightly up and continue the traverse until finally picking a way through a vegetated patch to gain a tree belay shared with Right-hand Route/Nibelheim.
3) 4c, 12m. Continue the traverse below a strip roof by first stepping down from the belay and passing a peg via a tricky sequence, then moving up and rightwards over easier ground to a peg belay in a niche.
4) 5a, 40m. Good rope work required to reduce drag and protect the second. Move up and right to an insitu thread around old nut (maillon sometimes in place). Consider how to protect the second, and then down climb on good holds for 6m until a move right gains a ledge (pegs). Move down 1m and traverse right with difficulty, (can be eased by moving down again) and continue on the same line until 3 holes are encountered. Move boldly right over small ledges to meet Joe's Route at its short wall and peg. Finish up this past a ledge (peg) and short corners to a belay on abseil rings. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,4c,5a.
Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay traverse right all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.
J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975.
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