UKC

110m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and sustained traverse of the North Wall - very exposed at times and one of the most popular of its genre anywhere. The whole party must be competent at the grade with a good grasp of ropework. Start as for Left Hand Route.
1) 4b, 25m. Pitch 1 Left Hand Route.
2) 4b, 35m. From the iron spike move up and right to a bulge guarding the traverse line (peg). Keeping low, move around to another peg, then follow a line of footholds right with insitu gear high and low (mainly pegs). When the footholds finish at a gap, reach right for a peg, then move slightly up and continue the traverse until finally picking a way through a vegetated patch to gain a tree belay shared with Right Hand Route/Nibelheim.
3) 4c, 12m. Continue the traverse below a strip roof by first stepping down from the belay and passing a peg via a tricky move, then move up right over easier ground to a peg belay in a niche.
4) 5a, 40m. Good rope work required to reduce drag and protect the second. Move up and right to an insitu thread around old nut (maillon sometimes in place). Consider how to protect the second, and then down climb on good holds for 6m until a move right gains a ledge (pegs). Move down 1m and traverse right with difficulty, (can be eased by moving down again) and continue on the same line until 3 holes are encountered. Move boldly right over small ledges to meet Joe's Route at its short wall and peg. Finish up this past a ledge (peg) and short corners to a belay on abseil rings. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,4c,5a.
Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay traverse right all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.

J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Lower Wye, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS), Traverses of trady radness, Extreme Girdle

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mattress 23 Jul Show βeta
βeta: No sign of the bees!
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βeta: No sign of the bees!
martinfindlay 19 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but the traverse on pitch 4 seems much harder than VS (since when did two-finger crimps followed by a dyno feature on a VS?!). Not sure if any locals know whether a hold has come off recently? The leader downclimbed a bit and traversed, but this didn't sound much better.
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βeta: Great route, but the traverse on pitch 4 seems much harder than VS (since when did two-finger crimps followed by a dyno feature on a VS?!). Not sure if any locals know whether a hold has come off recently? The leader downclimbed a bit and traversed, but this didn't sound much better.
miriamclaire 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I led P1,2&3; Dave led P4. Didn't read the comments below and got surprised by the bees. Finished up Angel's Eye.
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βeta: I led P1,2&3; Dave led P4. Didn't read the comments below and got surprised by the bees. Finished up Angel's Eye.
simoncov 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beesnest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
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βeta: Beesnest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
JGriffiths 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
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βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
Jonno30 12 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
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βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
badgerjockey 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.
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βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.

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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)
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