UKC

Climbs 1
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

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Right © Dax

Crag features

A largely disappointing crag about 100m long and approximately 10m high, mainly consisting of extremely friable, loose, chossy and dangerous limestone. The one slight exception is a 20m section stretching between the two shallow caves at the northern end where the rock lower than 6m is mostly climbable. It is defiantly not worth visiting unless you live very locally. One advantage is the rock in the two shallow caves totally sheltered in all weather. The left-hand (looking in) of the two shallow caves has got sound rock good for climbing on and is fun for creating eliminate boulder problems.The right-hand cave/roof at the far north-end of the crag has one good problem going through the roof.

Doug Deep, V8.
Sit starting on flat holds under the roof which lead to a long move from a lefthand sloper to a small but positive crimp at the back of the roof. A hard move from a two finger pocket and a small edge in the roof is made to a good flat hold over the lip - this requires very precise body tension to prevent a large swing. The overhanging wall above provides a powerful crux on increasingly small crimps and poor feet. The final move is a deadpoint to an intermediate sloping crimp then bumping off this to the finishing jug.

Approach notes

There is parking in an obvious lay-by as Old London Road levels out after leaving Wotton-Under-Edge. Walk back down the road about 75m and though the trees on the right will be the northern end of the crag as described. Take one of the many paths leaving the road into the trees, it cant be missed.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Loads of lose rock/scrub/etc. over this area making any time there risky. I second the sentiment that it is not worth visiting.
localboy - 05/Aug/10
This is really not worth visiting!
tombeasley - 14/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

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