UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

CAUTION: this route crosses some large, loose blocks in its upper section.

Take the line of least resistance to the top of this sector. Worthy of a star. Starts on the easy right side of the 'Hoodoo Magic' rib, by clip sticking the second bolt or easy solo. Follow the line of least resistance past the rib (clipping 3rd bolt of Hoodoo Magic) and finish as for 'Come to Mother'.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Lite

Feedback

User Date Notes
sofia_1997 17 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Got spooked by a loose block in one of the cracks, moved over onto 7a+ to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got spooked by a loose block in one of the cracks, moved over onto 7a+ to avoid
The Pylon King 4 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah did this back in May 2019 as a solo whilst cleaning the corner. It is called 'Carry On Quarrying'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah did this back in May 2019 as a solo whilst cleaning the corner. It is called 'Carry On Quarrying'.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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