Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"The super-direct version of Silver-tongued Cavalier. Climb straight up the slab avoiding the arête on the right and the crack on the left, even though it is tempting at the top, otherwise you don't get the full tick. The holds are all there.
G X Percival.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mike hope | 24 Jan |
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βeta: Maillons removed and replaced with rings. Safe to go. But nuts & bolts need replacing at some point as they are mixed metal. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maillons removed and replaced with rings. Safe to go. But nuts & bolts need replacing at some point as they are mixed metal. |
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| mike hope | 16 Jan |
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βeta: Beware! The mailon connected directly to the hanger on the left hand lower off, has a crack in it. This lower off station needs replacing asap. (Happy to do it as soon as I can) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Beware! The mailon connected directly to the hanger on the left hand lower off, has a crack in it. This lower off station needs replacing asap. (Happy to do it as soon as I can) |
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| PaulJepson | 15 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: I've put another pair of maillons at the top to stop the rope getting twizzled when lowering. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I've put another pair of maillons at the top to stop the rope getting twizzled when lowering. |
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| PaulJepson | 12 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: If the next person on this could take up a couple of mallions/rings for the lower-off, that would be ace. They twizzle the rope currently. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If the next person on this could take up a couple of mallions/rings for the lower-off, that would be ace. They twizzle the rope currently. |
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| jasperray | 23 Feb, 2021 |
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βeta: Cruised up on 2nd go after working out the moves on the first dog, I think I got the top easily thanks to having long arms... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cruised up on 2nd go after working out the moves on the first dog, I think I got the top easily thanks to having long arms... |
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