Rockfax Description
THE classic winter route of North Wales
1) 3, 40m. Climb the gully, passing a narrow chimney-like section (peg) to a cave belay where the gully widens
2) 4, 15m. Make an awkward move right around a jutting nose to gain a traverse line rightwards to a belay beneath a groove
3) 5, 30m. Climb a thin technical pitch up a groove in the slab and traverse left to the large cave belay in the main gully
4) 6, 12m. Step out right onto the thin and technical slab, and balance up this (1 or 2 pegs) to gain the gully above
5) 4, 20m. Go up the gully and grapple round a steep chockstone boulder
6) 1, 100m. Follow the easy gully to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great Welsh classic. Crux is rock slab exiting R-wards of large cave. Peg usually provides good protection for the hard moves. Direct finish on R wall of gully adds to overall balance, with more excellent climbing.


Cold Climbs , Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Cold Climbs (slimmed down)


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders)

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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 23
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Western Gully Direct Finish

Grade: V 5 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))

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