THE classic winter route of North Wales1) 3, 40m. Climb the gully, passing a narrow chimney-like section (peg) to a cave belay where the gully widens2) 4, 15m. Make an awkward move right around a jutting nose to gain a traverse line rightwards to a belay beneath a groove3) 5, 30m. Climb a thin technical pitch up a groove in the slab and traverse left to the large cave belay in the main gully4) 6, 12m. Step out right onto the thin and technical slab, and balance up this (1 or 2 pegs) to gain the gully above5) 4, 20m. Go up the gully and grapple round a steep chockstone boulder6) 1, 100m. Follow the easy gully to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Great Welsh classic. Crux is rock slab exiting R-wards of large cave. Peg usually provides good protection for the hard moves. Direct finish on R wall of gully adds to overall balance, with more excellent climbing.
Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter
Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist
Cold Climbs (slimmed down)
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Grade: V 5 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))
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