UKC

88m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Astounding positions and superb climbing combine to give one of the region's great climbs. The route follows a severely overhung diagonal line across the cliff, starting at sea level on the tip of the headland. The positions are serious for both leader and second and in anything but good, dry conditions the climbing on the third pitch can feel insecure. Calm sea conditions are essential if the route is attempted at high tide. Start on a sea-level ledge at the tip of the headland.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb around the headland onto the west face just above the high-tide mark. Move up a small slab before moving right below a little overhang and up again to a stance on a slab at the base of a left-leaning corner.
1a) 4c, 20m. An alternative first pitch, if the tide is very high, is to climb up and then traverse a steep pocketed wall right to a good ledge on the edge of the west face, before traversing down and right to the stance.
2) 5b, 10m. Move right and down via a difficult move (back rope for second) and traverse right, either high or low, to a stance at a wide crack in the corner.
2a) 5b, 20m. An alternative high-level version of the previous pitch is possible, for conditions when the sea is a bit choppy.
3) 5b, 20m. A wild pitch. Move up to the roof and then move down slightly before heading out across the steep wall and up to regain the roof. Continue right beneath the roof, passing a protruding fin of rock, to gain a steep hanging slab. Cross this, and a small corner, before making a steep move up to better holds, small spike. Move right and swing down to a stance on a projecting foot ledge.
4) 5a, 18m. Pull through the small overhang to the base of the large right-trending corner and move out right and up onto the wall to a small ledge. Finish up the wall. Belay well back. A scramble up the cracks on the left regains the ridge. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, C.Bryan 31/Mar/1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Extreme Girdle, Pathway to Triple 8, Definitive *** West Cornwall, World Class Britain & Ireland, Target Routes 2019/2020, Big Routes 2020, I want a Pasty!, 2021 Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
mattnuttall 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Yes... we went relatively low all the way into the belay below the wild overhang pitch. Nothing above 5a across there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes... we went relatively low all the way into the belay below the wild overhang pitch. Nothing above 5a across there
Chimnastics 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Having just climbed this today, I don't think there is any rockfall that has affected the route recently. We climbed lower than the low tide start (before getting back on route), and there were no issues.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Having just climbed this today, I don't think there is any rockfall that has affected the route recently. We climbed lower than the low tide start (before getting back on route), and there were no issues.
Bruise Apprentice 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently there was rockfall in 2016 that has changed the nature of the original P1 low-tide traverse line. Best to stick to the high tide traverse line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently there was rockfall in 2016 that has changed the nature of the original P1 low-tide traverse line. Best to stick to the high tide traverse line.

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Route of Interest

Rock Dancer

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)
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