UKC

Contributed by myrddinmuse Feb/18 - This public ticklist has been seen 2,736 times

Who says there's no jam cracks in South East Wales? A list of the myriad opportunities to lose a bit of skin, mostly within an hour of Cardiff. Most you can probably layback or face climb.. But why the hell would you?

Some are in England technically, but it since it's just Wales' stolen land I thought I'd count it anyway ;)

Happy struggling.

Henry placing a cam before starting the traverse above the void.  © Piers Cunliffe
Henry placing a cam before starting the traverse above the void.
© Piers Cunliffe, Apr 2010

39 users are subscribed to this ticklist, and none have completed the full list.
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User Percentage Latest Log
1st Hidden 37% 29 Apr, 2023
2nd myrddinmuse 27% 21 Apr
2nd chris wyatt 27% 8 Oct, 2022
3rd steve_gibbs 26% 19 Mar, 2023
4th steve-grigg 23% 5 Mar, 2022
5th Hidden 22% 21 Apr
6th Stone Muppet 20% 24 Jun, 2023
6th PaulJepson 20% 23 Mar
7th lieraza 19% 30 Sep, 2023
8th Hidden 18% 30 Sep, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Ben setting a premature belay on Exposure Explosion at Ogmore.

Exposure Explosion
Ben setting a premature belay on Exposure Explosion at Ogmore.
© GHawksworth

The second pitch of Exposure explosion.

Exposure Explosion
The second pitch of Exposure explosion.
© dmorgan27

Traversing out

Exposure Explosion
Traversing out
© GHawksworth

Looking back at Dave on the P4 belay on EE during particularly high seas!

Exposure Explosion
Looking back at Dave on the P4 belay on EE during particularly high seas!
© haydng

Ben crossing one of the aretes on Exposure Explosion

Exposure Explosion
Ben crossing one of the aretes on Exposure Explosion
© GHawksworth

Hanging out

Exposure Explosion
Hanging out
© gingernick

New bolted routes at the bottom of the Wintour's Leap in the Go Wall, Just to the left of the classic "King Kong."

King Kong
New bolted routes at the bottom of the Wintour's Leap in the Go Wall, Just to the left of the classic "King Kong."
© Matt Tranter

What's your best jamming face?!

Scout Crack
What's your best jamming face?!
© Mikaela Toczek

Butterfly

Butterfly
© Mark Davis

Henry about to tackle the awkward move to gain the upper slab

The Horned One
Henry about to tackle the awkward move to gain the upper slab
© bpmclimb

Leading the final pitch!

Exposure Explosion
Leading the final pitch!
© Airtime!

Ali Taylor on Freedom

Freedom
Ali Taylor on Freedom
© henry castle


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
VALLEYS SANDSTONE
The Clart Mountain Project 7b * 2 20m • 2 Crymlyn Quarries
Thumbsucker E5 6a *** 21 18m Treherbert Quarrry...
Lamb Leer Disease E2 5c ** 31 ? Treherbert Quarrry...
The Expansionist E3 5b ** 15 ? Llanbradach
Fistula 7a ** 22 18m Mount Pleasant X1
Fisty Nuts 7b+ ** 3 ? Mount Pleasant X1
Piano Dentist 6b+ * 19 22m Crymlyn Quarries
Crack Basher E3 *** 55 ? Abbey Buttress
Restrictive Practice E3 * 13 ? Abbey Buttress
Zeitgeist E2 * 22 15m Sirhowy
Just Hanging Around E1 5b * 50 12m The Gap
Rattle Those Tusks 6b ** 368 18m The Gap
Troilism Trouble E2 * 4 ? Deri
Roaches Revisited HVS 23 11m Trehafod
Completely Punked E1 5b 3 ? Cymmer (Punk Rocks)
The Cragmeister 6b ** 681 16m Tirpentwys
Mick's Little Viper HVS 5a 220 ? Trebanog
10,000 Unstoppable Watts E1 5a * 22 12m Cilfrew Edge
Baphomet HVS 5b ** 5 8m Cilfrew Edge
Repairer of Reputations VS 5a * 5 8m Cilfrew Edge
COASTAL
Liassic Lark 7a * 199 ? Witches Point
Stone Wings E5 * 2 ? Witches Point
Power Trap E3 5c *** 10 36m Fall Bay to Mewslade
Transformer E3 6a *** 30 48m Fall Bay to Mewslade
Seth E1 5c ** 127 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Kaiser HVS 5a ** 29 40m • 2 Fall Bay to Mewslade
Chantilly Lace HVS 5b ** 20 21m Fall Bay to Mewslade
Horus HVS 5a ** 70 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Onion Crack (Weeping Crack) VS 5a * 20 9m Tor Bay and Great...
Onion Cocaine E2 5b * 3 7m Tor Bay and Great...
The Road to Azerbaijan E1 5b * 4 9m Tor Bay and Great...
Scout Crack S 4a ** 443 12m Tor Bay and Great...
The Salubrious Passage E5 6a ** 1 ? Third Sister to...
Breakout E1 5b 4 13m Pennard
Megalopolis E1 5b ** 14 ? Ogmore (Main)
Glycogen E1 5a *** 26 ? Ogmore (Main)
Leprechaun E1 5b * 7 ? Ogmore (Main)
Exposure Explosion HVS 5a *** 221 84m • 7 Ogmore (Main)
Finger Print E4 6a ** 17 ? Ogmore (Main)
Pumpty Dumpty 7a * 2 17m Crymlyn Quarries
WYE VALLEY LIMESTONE
So Gross 6b * 193 11m Ban-y-gor
Organ Grinder HVS 5a *** 908 20m Shorn Cliff
Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5b *** 956 18m Shorn Cliff
Fallacy HVS 5a ** 286 22m Shorn Cliff
Offspring VS 4c ** 378 ? Symonds Yat
Kipper Crack VS 4c * 128 ? Symonds Yat
King of the Swingers E1 5c * 11 14m Symonds Yat
Papillon VS 4b ** 543 40m Wynd Cliff
Questor VS 4c *** 1154 34m Wynd Cliff
Fibre VS 4c ** 564 43m Wynd Cliff
Bodger Bob E2 5c ** 206 ? Wyndcliff Quarry
Gone are the Days 6a * 726 16m Wyndcliff Quarry
Canine Crack E1 5b * 406 15m Wyndcliff Quarry
Banana Crack 5c 480 ? Wyndcliff Quarry
Bulging Flies E3 5c ** 108 ? Wintour's Leap
The Split VS 5a ** 679 27m • 2 Wintour's Leap
Big Fly Direct E1 5a *** 249 ? Wintour's Leap
King Kong E1 5b *** 669 ? Wintour's Leap
Freedom VS 4c *** 1004 30m Wintour's Leap
Banana Crunch E2 5b 10 18m Wintour's Leap
Butterfly VS 4c ** 1245 26m • 2 Wintour's Leap
GLOUCESTER SANDSTONE
The Horned One E1 5b ** 66 25m Staple Edge Quarry...
Butch and Sundance E1 5b * 53 22m Staple Edge Quarry...
Drake Passage E2 5c * 9 25m Staple Edge Quarry...
Arthur Pod HVS 5b 15 22m Staple Edge Quarry...
BONUS: FAT CRACKS
Royle Headache 6b+ 1 11m Witches Point
What's the Craic E2 8 ? Gilwern
Quimble VS 4b 3 ? Ogmore (Main)
Maz E1 5a 1 ? Llwynypia
Calcaneum Crunch E2 5c * 3 ? Llwynypia
Kneetoucher's Crack VS 4c 1 6m Cilfrew Edge
Throbbing Gristle E3 5c * 4 12m Cilfrew Edge
74 e, 108 stars 13,900 931m 82
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