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Simon Fowler on the first ascent of 'The Tail of Two Ends' at Aerials, Coastguard cliffs.
© Adam Perrett, Jul 2014

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012 ticklist

contributed by Adam Perrett Feb/19

This ticklist is to help climbers keep up to date with the NEW SPORT routes added to Portland, Dorset since the publication of the Rockfax 2012 guidebook (Retro-bolted trad routes are also included).

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 TOUT QUARRY
Ascension7a 16mTout Quarry
Stone Child6c+ -6mTout Quarry
Badger, Badger, Badger6b+ 27mTout Quarry
Still Falling7a 1?Tout Quarry
 BLACKNOR FAR NORTH - FALLAWAY BLOCK
It's the End of the World as we Know it (and I Feel Fine)5a 5?Blacknor North
Unprecedented Times6a 3?Blacknor North
Enlightenment (Sport)6a 5?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR FAR NORTH - PIT PROP SOUTH WING
The Ivanator6b 3?Blacknor North
Blown Away6c+ 1?Blacknor North
The Blacknor Lemmings5b 7?Blacknor North
Walking on Broken Glass6b+ 1?Blacknor North
The Notorious Ivy G5b 4?Blacknor North
I Spy Gaz Fry5c 4?Blacknor North
Princess Consuela Bananahammock6a+ 4?Blacknor North
A Highway With No One On It6b 2?Blacknor North
One Armed Bandit5c 6?Blacknor North
The Mighty Midget6b+ 2?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR NORTH - CLIFF TOP QUARRY
Ohana4a 3?Blacknor North
The Adventure Begins3a 4?Blacknor North
 BLACKNOR CENTRAL
I Don't Have a Spoiler so I Just Leave My Boot Open6b *4316mBlacknor Central
Solstice Arête7a+ 526mBlacknor Central
Madame Butterfly6a+ 1325mBlacknor Central
Dust in the Wind5c *1532mBlacknor Central
Summer Wine6a **1120mBlacknor Central
The Thin Edge of the Wedge6a+ *1320mBlacknor Central
Rise of Iron6a+ 820mBlacknor Central
Electric Brae6b+ 120mBlacknor Central
Elusive Butterfly6b+ *220mBlacknor Central
Gone Amongst Innocent Angels6b **7429mBlacknor Central
Up Lift Finish6b+ **1229mBlacknor Central
 BLACKNOR BEACH
Multi-Bitchin'5c **535m• 2Blacknor Beach
Your Mum's So Wet6b *322mBlacknor Beach
Banana Sambuca4c 188mBlacknor Beach
Shelly3a 237mBlacknor Beach
Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking3a 215mBlacknor Beach
 BLACKNOR SOUTH - SACRED ANGEL AREA
Northern Soul7a+ 1?Blacknor South
Southern Twist7b *4?Blacknor South
All Things Being Equal6b 41?Blacknor South
Eating Bush5a 224?Blacknor South
Princess Bolting3c 22214mBlacknor South
Jutland4a 393?Blacknor South
Beware of the Rungis5c 77?Blacknor South
Pedagogy6a 658mBlacknor South
There's Something To Bite On6a *3115mBlacknor South
That Untravelled World6b 1?Blacknor South
 BLACKNOR SOUTH - SHARBUTTS QUARRY
Ohhh Kaya6c 10?Blacknor South
Evie's Constance5c *124mBlacknor South
 BLACKNOR FAR SOUTH
Battle Against Time5c *4921mBlacknor Far South
Six Go Mad in Sorrento6a *36?Blacknor Far South
Wubba Lubba Dub Dub!6a *3621mBlacknor Far South
Year of the Cat6a+ 1321mBlacknor Far South
Spanish Eyes6a+ *3121mBlacknor Far South
On the Edge of a Storm5c *4817mBlacknor Far South
In the Eye of a Storm6c+ *1121mBlacknor Far South
Not the Dark Side3a 2914mBlacknor Far South
No Idea6c+ -?Blacknor Far South
Invictus7b **1620mBlacknor Far South
 BATTLESHIP EDGE
Eighth Wonder5c *3310mBattleship Edge
Sweeter than Honey6a -?Battleship Edge
Making Smiles5c -?Battleship Edge
Skateboard to Oblivion5c *6412mBattleship Edge
It's All Good4b 19?Battleship Edge
Persistence is Futile6b 6?Battleship Edge
Misty Monday3b 17?Battleship Edge
Guerrillas in the Myst4c 13?Battleship Edge
High Jinks5c 1?• 3Battleship Edge
The Scroobious Pip6b 4?Battleship Edge
Solar Deprivation6a 4?Battleship Edge
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF
Superfast6c 78mBattleship Back...
Megahurts6c+ 57mBattleship Back...
Terrorbyte6b+ 67mBattleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BLOCK - SEAWARD FACE
Diamonds and Rust6a+ -?• 2Battleship Back...
Reach Out5b 1?Battleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF - THE VERANDA
Lazy Robs and Frightful Lobs5c *1515mBattleship Back...
Thin on Top6b+ 698mBattleship Back...
Samphire and Steel5a 796mBattleship Back...
More Soap, Less Shampoo4c 828mBattleship Back...
 BATTLESHIP BACK CLIFF - BRONTOSAURUS WALL
A Compromise That Satisfies Nobody3b 136mBattleship Back...
Dust, Sweat and Beers4a 136mBattleship Back...
Cosmic Brontosaurus5a 136mBattleship Back...
Cheers Neil5b 106mBattleship Back...
Inverted Goat5b 126mBattleship Back...
Bucking Bronto4b 136mBattleship Back...
 WALLSEND NORTH - SO HARDCORE AREA
One Bolt Ward7b *27mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - UNDERLAND AREA
Riding the Dinosaur2c ***138mWallsend North
Wish You Were Here4c 88mWallsend North
Bright as a Box of Birds6a 98mWallsend North
Where Did It All Go Right?6a+ 48mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - UNSUNG AREA
The Sixteen Dollar Man6b+ 37mWallsend North
Dodo's Delight6b 159mWallsend North
Portsea Road7a 713mWallsend North
Dodo's Revenge7a 411mWallsend North
Smug Mode Enabled6b 117mWallsend North
The Contortionist7a+ 113mWallsend North
 WALLSEND NORTH - SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS
The Craic6a -?Wallsend North
Breakfast at Wendy’s6a -?Wallsend North
 WALLSEND SOUTH - TRAD FREE WORLD
Queen of a Distant Country6b+ -?Wallsend South
Delta of Venus6b+ -?Wallsend South
 COASTGUARD NORTH - WAX MUSEUM
Life in a Northern Town6b -?Coastguard North
Witness the Wetness8b -?Coastguard North
Golden Groove6a+ *123mCoastguard North
 COASTGUARD SOUTH - THE AERIALS
Rude Not To5a 426mCoastguard South
My Lovely Joey5a 427mCoastguard South
The Tail of Two Ends6b+ 187mCoastguard South
Jog on Doris4c 488mCoastguard South
Chalkings of a Madman6a 458mCoastguard South
Climb It Like You Stole It6b 278mCoastguard South
Where's Pablo's Phone?6a+ 218mCoastguard South
Rigor Tortoise6b+ 158mCoastguard South
A Time of Gifts4a 268mCoastguard South
Old Tom Bombadil5a 2010mCoastguard South
Embrace of an Endless Ocean5c 2310mCoastguard South
Diving for Pearls6b+ 512mCoastguard South
 COOL VIBE AREA - CAVE HOLE
Prince of Tides5b *38mCave Hole
Escape from Davy Jones’ Locker3b 38mCave Hole
This is the Sea4a 38mCave Hole
Carenza3b 38mCave Hole
Stone Bridge5c *2?Cave Hole
The Shambles5a 410mCave Hole
Skylark4b *310mCave Hole
Now, Voyager6a *19mCave Hole
Action Man6b+ 19mCave Hole
And Then There Were Two4b 48mCave Hole
 BEESTON CLIFF - LIMEKILN CAVE AREA
Sword at Sunset6b 112mBeeston Cliff
The Lantern Bearers6a 110mBeeston Cliff
Love of Life5c 210mBeeston Cliff
 CHEYNE WEARS - GODNOR FAR NORTH
Quality Street5c -?• 3Cheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - NEDDYFIELDS MAIN CLIFF
Prestige Worldwide6b 1515mCheyne Weares Area
Jungle VIP5c 3915mCheyne Weares Area
New Toys3c 3010mCheyne Weares Area
Outside Left Arête4b *53?Cheyne Weares Area
Crush with Eyeliner (Sport)5b *43?Cheyne Weares Area
The Wilsonator6b 10613mCheyne Weares Area
Jobby's Leaving Gift5b 1218mCheyne Weares Area
Joe Stole My Route5b 898mCheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - DUNGECROFT QUARRY
Piece of Cake3b 61?Cheyne Weares Area
Received Wisdom6a 58?Cheyne Weares Area
Two Sixths4c 61?Cheyne Weares Area
Room for a Little'un?5a 60?Cheyne Weares Area
Ladder of Desire5c 69?Cheyne Weares Area
Splendid Vista5b 68?Cheyne Weares Area
Black Leather Rock6a+ 42?Cheyne Weares Area
Bain't no Coastpath 'ere!6a+ 31?Cheyne Weares Area
Welcome to Las Vegas, Mark6a 35?Cheyne Weares Area
Chandelier6b+ 47mCheyne Weares Area
I Fell in Love with Uranus6b 67mCheyne Weares Area
Crimping the Ephemeral6c 9?Cheyne Weares Area
The Tooth Clown5c 86mCheyne Weares Area
Viagra Wall6c+ 58mCheyne Weares Area
Jaguar Skills6c+ 77mCheyne Weares Area
Last Ditch Effort5b 138mCheyne Weares Area
Buzzin'6b+ 96mCheyne Weares Area
Read the Sign5b 216mCheyne Weares Area
The Hangover6a 257mCheyne Weares Area
Suspiria de Profundis6b 147mCheyne Weares Area
Slap and Tickle6a+ 177mCheyne Weares Area
 CHEYNE WEARS - THE LOST VALLEY
Fallen Angel5a 127mSouthwell Landslips
Heavens Above7b 17mSouthwell Landslips
Marry Me in Vegas?7b 210mSouthwell Landslips
Even Nicer6b 4?Southwell Landslips
Birdie Num Num6c+ 4?Southwell Landslips
Promethean Flame6a 5?• 2Southwell Landslips
Tactical Nuclear Penguin6b 54?Southwell Landslips
Lush5c *1099mSouthwell Landslips
Head in a Bush3c 1438mSouthwell Landslips
The Angel from my Nightmare3a 1328mSouthwell Landslips
 THE NEW CUTTINGS
Out with the Old6b 188mThe New Cuttings
In with the New6c *98mThe New Cuttings
Winnie the Pooh5b 178mThe New Cuttings
Head of Steam6b+ *78mThe New Cuttings
Sublimation Arête6b 287mThe New Cuttings
Magic Roundabout6b+ -?The New Cuttings
The Fat Controller6b+ 8?The New Cuttings
Descent Horizon6a+ 248mThe New Cuttings
Julia Edwards6c *15?The New Cuttings
Ahead of the Curve6b+ *68mThe New Cuttings
Learning Curve6a+ **308mThe New Cuttings
Cold Fusion6a *316mThe New Cuttings
The Man Who Can’t be Moved6c+ 38mThe New Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS
Sean4c 359mThe Cuttings
Died in Your Arms6c **26?The Cuttings
The Mermaid7a 13?The Cuttings
The Mantelist6b 41?The Cuttings
Dignity5c 8211mThe Cuttings
Bridget Riley6b+ **5615mThe Cuttings
Looking for Love6b *52?The Cuttings
Chasing Highs7b+ **415mThe Cuttings
Marti Chef7b *17?The Cuttings
So Long, Marianne6c 19?The Cuttings
Rules is Rules6b+ 75?The Cuttings
For Michèle6a 83?The Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS - THE DELL
Sjambok the Skelem4c 609mThe Cuttings
The Naughty Corner4a 7511mThe Cuttings
West of Vanity Fare6b 3312mThe Cuttings
Hot Fuzz5c 3610mThe Cuttings
Don't Bring Your Mum2a 246mThe Cuttings
 THE CUTTINGS - THE BOWER
All Bowered Out6a *24?The Cuttings
50!3b 33?The Cuttings
25!4a 31?The Cuttings
Underbower5c 30?The Cuttings
Like-minded Folk6a 31?The Cuttings
 NICODEMUS KNOB - KNOB HEAD
The Prow5a 198mNicodemus Knob
Less is More6b 78mNicodemus Knob
The Wharncliffe Boys4b 218mNicodemus Knob
If a Great Wave Shall Fall6b 78mNicodemus Knob
Nebbin the Knob6b 128mNicodemus Knob
Himmelsweg6b 108mNicodemus Knob
A Belly Full of Bad Apples6a 118mNicodemus Knob
Honorary Boy3c 208mNicodemus Knob
The Clitheroe Kid4a 198mNicodemus Knob
 NICODEMUS KNOB - THE SHAFT
Piss in Peace5c 6?Nicodemus Knob
Farval5c 10?Nicodemus Knob
To the Moon and Back6a 88mNicodemus Knob
Crystal Tipps6b+ 18mNicodemus Knob
The Weymouth Girls5b 88mNicodemus Knob
Nowhereisland5a 6?Nicodemus Knob
 NICODEMUS KNOB - KNOB END
High Above the Mucky Muck5b 58mNicodemus Knob
Bloodline6a 88mNicodemus Knob
Rosie the Riveter4b 78mNicodemus Knob
Beautifully Bolted by the Portland Psychos3c 78mNicodemus Knob
55 stars5,4681,496m• 227
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