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At Full Stretch. Sean on Christmas Crack, Stanage.
© ChrisJD, Mar 2006

Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags. ticklist

contributed by gmuston Aug/20

The best trad routes of the four crags (Froggatt, Burbage North, Stanage Popular, and Stanage Plantation), proposed for September's Grit trip. A mix of good leads for new leaders, and great routes for the more experienced. Routes vary from 1* to 3* (the best). The relevant routes from the famous Classic and Hard Rock books are highlighted, as well as the Eastern Grit Rockfax Top 50 routes. Almost all of the HS's on this list are safe, get on them. I have also included good options for first VS leads at Burbage and Stanage Popular, as a couple of you should be aiming to get these done. For all of the following crags some of the routes need specific gear which is recommended in the guidebook, it is important that you check the individual route descriptions on the guidebook pages. Lastly, make sure you read, and take note of the crag notes below.

Enjoy!!!

Crag Notes:

FROGGATT:
A fair few very good lower grade routes including Heather Wall (HVD), Trapeze (VD), Allen's Slab (S) and Slab Recess (D).
Also, the Froggatt HS's mentioned in this ticklist are really good, and generally(!) very well protected. Get on them new leaders!
Valkyrie is the only Froggatt Route in either Classic or Hard Rock.
I have included a few awkward offwidth cracks for messr's Osmond and Flintham, if you (new leaders) aren't interested in this masochism, then make sure you check what you're getting on!
Make sure you read the topo diagrams correctly, a lot of the routes here have sections that overlap with other (sometimes much harder) routes. Don't sandbag yourself.

Hard Rock Routes: Valkyrie (HVS).

Eastern Grit Top 50 Routes: Tody's Wall (HVS), Sunset Slab (HVS), Chequers Buttress (HVS), Three Pebble Slab (HVS), Valkyrie (HVS), Brown's Eliminate (E2).


BURBAGE NORTH:
Absolutely tonnes of 1/2* short, good quality routes. A good opportunity to get lots of leads in for new leaders. I've tried to include just the good ones. I haven't included the stuff left of banana finger because its not as good but new leaders can also check those out. To an extent you can't really go wrong with any of the routes.
A fair few jamming cracks are included, beware.
The Guidebook recommends Mutiny Crack (HS), Amazon Crack (HS), Obscenity (VS), Knight's Move (HVS), Long Tall Sally (E1), and the Sentinel (E2), as being particularly great.

No routes in Classic or Hard Rock.

Eastern Grit Top 50 Routes: Mutiny Crack (HS), Knight's Move (HVS), Long Tall Sally (E1).

Good First VS leads: Greeny Crack.


STANAGE POPULAR:
The most popular crag in Britain. You can't really go wrong with any of the routes on this crag. However, there are hundreds. I've tried to give you some direction as to what constitutes the best of the best. Almost every route on this list could be one of the best you ever do. Some Classic Rock and lots of Top 50 to do. Particularly good at the grades of Vdiff, HS, and VS. If you're thinking of doing the first route of a new grade, you could do worse than do it here.

Classic Rock Routes: Flying Buttress (HVD), April Crack (HS), Hargreaves Original (VS).

Eastern Grit Top 50 Routes: Heaven Crack (VD), Hollybush Crack (VD), Flying Buttress (HVD), Christmas Crack (HS), April Crack (HS), Inverted V (VS), Hargreaves Original (VS), Martello Buttress (VS), Mississippi Buttress Direct (VS), Robin Hood's Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish (HVS), Congo Corner (HVS), The Link (E1), Flying Buttress Direct (E1), The Tippler (E1).

Good First VS leads: Inverted V, Martello Buttress, Hargreaves Original (slightly harder than the other two).


STANAGE PLANTATION:
Not as much classic trad quality here as the popular end, but this is made up for by world class bouldering, (Lewis will be your guide on this). However there are a few climbs that will make a good day out, as well as some good first leads. Most of the easy leads are around the leftward end of the cliff, as well as in the Goliath's Groove, Paradise Wall, and Unconquerables Areas. There are no Classic Rock routes here, but there is the brilliant The Right Unconquerable from Hard Rock.

Hard Rock Routes: The Right Unconquerable (HVS).

Eastern Grit Top 50 Routes: Goliath's Groove (HVS), The Right Unconquerable (HVS), The Left Unconquerable (E1), Milsom's Minion (E1), Tower Face Direct (E2), Archangel (E3).

Good First HS leads: Paradise Wall. Very safe and very good. Get on it!




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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 FROGGATT
 STRAPIOMBO BUTTRESS
English OverhangVS 4c *1019mFroggatt Edge
StrapiombanteE1 5b **15708mFroggatt Edge
 SUNSET SLAB AREA
Slab and CrackD *80410mFroggatt Edge
Sunset CrackHS 4b **457412mFroggatt Edge
Sunset SlabHVS 4b ***372514mFroggatt Edge
 HAWK'S NEST CRACK AREA
Swimmer's ChimneyS 4a *26212mFroggatt Edge
Cave CrawlHS 5a **63012mFroggatt Edge
Hawk's Nest CrackVS 4c ***170112mFroggatt Edge
 TERRACE CRACK AREA
Terrace CrackHS 4b **218212mFroggatt Edge
BrightsideE2 5c **38712mFroggatt Edge
 TODY'S WALL AREA
Heather WallHVD 3c ***512516mFroggatt Edge
Silver TraverseHVD 4a *115?Froggatt Edge
Silver CrackHS 4b *77810mFroggatt Edge
Bollard CrackVS 4c *5268mFroggatt Edge
Tody's WallHVS 5a ***500518mFroggatt Edge
 THREE PEBBLE SLAB AREA
Three Pebble SlabHVS 5a ***428512mFroggatt Edge
 VALKYRIE AREA
Diamond CrackHS 4b **22548mFroggatt Edge
ValkyrieHVS 5a ***198920m• 2Froggatt Edge
 SICKLE BUTTRESS
Slab RecessD **244416mFroggatt Edge
TrapezeVD **211114mFroggatt Edge
Sickle ButtressS 4a *127712mFroggatt Edge
Allen's SlabS 4a **215816mFroggatt Edge
Broken CrackVS 5a **117510mFroggatt Edge
 BROWN'S ELIMINATE AREA
Green GutHS 4a ***360214mFroggatt Edge
Pedestal CrackHVS 5a **133214mFroggatt Edge
Chequers CrackHVS 5c **104114mFroggatt Edge
Brown's EliminateE2 5b ***148516mFroggatt Edge
 CHEQUERS BUTTRESS AREA
Solomon's CrackVD *79512mFroggatt Edge
Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***344814mFroggatt Edge
 BURBAGE NORTH
 BANANA FINGER AREA
Monkey CornerHVD *11398mBurbage North
 ALL QUIET AREA
Chockstone ClimbVD *288?Burbage North
PulcherrimeVS 4b *13458mBurbage North
 REEMERGENCE BUTTRESS
DetourS 4a *5478mBurbage North
Dead Tree CrackHS 4b *165?Burbage North
Mutiny CrackHS 4b ***244210mBurbage North
 ASH TREE WALL AREA
Bilberry CrackVD *169012mBurbage North
Ash Tree CrackVD *207312mBurbage North
Wall CornerHVD 4a *111810mBurbage North
Wall ChimneyS 4a *1608mBurbage North
Ash Tree WallS 4a **229014mBurbage North
 THE SENTINEL AREA
Sentinel CrackD *107310mBurbage North
Sentinel ChimneyHVD 4a *39210mBurbage North
RingoS 4a *135210mBurbage North
Ring ClimbS 4a *104810mBurbage North
LiebackHS 4b *13138mBurbage North
The GrazerVS 5a *8858mBurbage North
Now or NeverE1 5b **60812mBurbage North
The SentinelE2 5b ***70010mBurbage North
 KNIGHT'S MOVE AREA
Still OrangeS 4a *145912mBurbage North
Hollyash CrackVS 4b **173814mBurbage North
Great CrackVS 5a **82414mBurbage North
Knight's MoveHVS 5a ***350616mBurbage North
The RainmakerHVS 5b **48210mBurbage North
 TWIN CHINEYS TO THARF CAKE AREA
Bilberry WallVD *78510mBurbage North
Twin Chimneys LaybackHVD 4a **424?Burbage North
Right Twin CrackHVD 4a *6578mBurbage North
Left Twin CrackS 4a *7698mBurbage North
Falstaff's InnominateS 4b *458?Burbage North
 BROOKS' LAYBACK AREA
Brooks' LaybackHS 4b **12928mBurbage North
 LONG TALL SALLY AREA
Amazon CrackHS 4b ***210612mBurbage North
Greeny CrackVS 4b **138710mBurbage North
ObscenityVS 4c ***62512mBurbage North
Right FinHVS 5a **9548mBurbage North
Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***200310mBurbage North
 STANAGE POPULAR
 BAW'S CRAWL AREA
BAW's CrawlHVS 5a ***92710mStanage Popular
 MARTELLO BUTTRESS
Byne's RouteHS 4b **78814mStanage Popular
Martello ButtressVS 4c ***221816mStanage Popular
The ScoopHVS 5b ***94916mStanage Popular
 HEAVEN CRACK AREA
Heaven CrackVD ***445610mStanage Popular
Hell CrackVS 4c ***166114mStanage Popular
 MISSISSIPPI BUTTRESS
Amazon CrackS 4a **181612mStanage Popular
Mississippi Buttress DirectVS 4c ***408922mStanage Popular
Congo CornerHVS 5b ***126324mStanage Popular
The LinkE1 5b ***111422mStanage Popular
Dark ContinentE1 5c ***44320mStanage Popular
 BALCONY BUTTRESS
Balcony ButtressS 4a ***250020mStanage Popular
Agony CrackHVS 5a **102112mStanage Popular
 ROBIN HOOD'S CAVE
Robin Hood's CrackHVD 4a **107018mStanage Popular
Robin Hood's Cave Innominate/Harding's FinishHVS 5a ***107920mStanage Popular
WutheringE2 5b ***73020mStanage Popular
The AspE3 6a ***34912mStanage Popular
 INVERTED V AREA
Bishop's RouteS 4a ***332526mStanage Popular
Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress DirectHS 4a ***353022mStanage Popular
Inverted VVS 4b ***423122mStanage Popular
Ellis's EliminateVS 4c ***153920mStanage Popular
 BLACK SLAB AREA
Christmas CrackHS 4a ***611516mStanage Popular
April CrackHS 4b ***431416mStanage Popular
Hargreaves' OriginalVS 4c ***528418mStanage Popular
Whillans' Pendulum/Black MagicHVS 5b ***83616mStanage Popular
 HOLLYBUSH CRACK AREA
Hollybush CrackVD ***547314mStanage Popular
Leaning Buttress CrackVD **307514mStanage Popular
QueersvilleHVS 5a ***298316mStanage Popular
Yosemite WallE2 5b **62916mStanage Popular
 FLYING BUTTRESS
Flying ButtressHVD 4a ***655924mStanage Popular
Flying Buttress DirectE1 5b ***261316mStanage Popular
 TIPPLER BUTTRESS
The TipplerE1 5b ***110918mStanage Popular
The UnprintableE1 5b **33214mStanage Popular
The DanglerE2 5c ***26016mStanage Popular
 BLACK HAWK AREA
Black Hawk Hell CrackS 4a ***494114mStanage Popular
Black HawkHS 4c **202314mStanage Popular
EliminatorHVS 5b ***238714mStanage Popular
 MANCHESTER BUTTRESS
Manchester ButtressHS 4b ***447616mStanage Popular
 GROTTO SLAB AREA
Crack and CornerS 4b ***388316mStanage Popular
 STANAGE PLANTATION
 COUNT'S BUTTRESS
Count's ChimneyD *12014mStanage Plantation
Eden ArêteS 4a *120?Stanage Plantation
Count's CrackVS 4c **49212mStanage Plantation
Count's ButtressE2 5c ***21316mStanage Plantation
 D.I.Y AREA
ToxicD *182?Stanage Plantation
SetsquareS 4a *1188mStanage Plantation
 SURPRISE AREA
Dot's SlabD *156?Stanage Plantation
Dot's ArêteS 4a *28?Stanage Plantation
 OUTLOOK BUTTRESS
Ladder CracksVD *4478mStanage Plantation
Lookout FlakeS 4b *2818mStanage Plantation
 FERN CRACK AREA
Fern CrackVS 4c ***116816mStanage Plantation
Wall End SlabVS 5a ***165022mStanage Plantation
 GOLIATH'S GROOVE AREA
Fairy Steps EscapeVD *57?Stanage Plantation
Hollybush Gully RightVD **55520mStanage Plantation
Helfenstein's StruggleHVD 4a **46616mStanage Plantation
The CoignHS 4b **104016mStanage Plantation
Wall End Crack DirectHS 4b **75916mStanage Plantation
Wall End Flake CrackVS 4c **117820mStanage Plantation
Saul's ArêteVS 4c ***27122mStanage Plantation
Goliath's GrooveHVS 5a ***195922mStanage Plantation
ArchangelE3 5b ***32822mStanage Plantation
 TOWER FACE AREA
Tower CrackHVS 5b **22124mStanage Plantation
Tower ChimneyE1 5b ***15220mStanage Plantation
Tower Face DirectE2 5b ***87022mStanage Plantation
 THE STRANGLER AREA
Gardener's CrackD *514?Stanage Plantation
Percy's ProwHVD *3458mStanage Plantation
Grooved ArêteS 4a *418mStanage Plantation
 PARADISE WALL AREA
Paradise CrackHVD 4a **99214mStanage Plantation
Paradise WallHS 4b ***364714mStanage Plantation
Paradise ArêteVS 4c **199914mStanage Plantation
 MILLSOM'S MINION AREA
CueHVS 5b **34822mStanage Plantation
Millsom's MinionE1 5b ***169622mStanage Plantation
 NAMENLOS AREA
NamenlosHVS 5a **116114mStanage Plantation
 CALVARY AREA
Chockstone ChimneyHVD 3c **30018mStanage Plantation
August ArêteHVS 5b **45714mStanage Plantation
TelliE3 6a **61910mStanage Plantation
 THE UNCONQUERABLES AREA
Pillar ArêteVD *5436mStanage Plantation
Curving ChimneyVD **31016mStanage Plantation
The Right UnconquerableHVS 5a ***280416mStanage Plantation
The Left UnconquerableE1 5b ***230816mStanage Plantation
36 e, 303 stars224,2831,873m• 144