UKC

The hardest sport route in America? Caldwell does "Flex Luthor"

Climbing magazine reports that early this week Tommy Caldwell redpointed his longtime project at the limestone crag called Fortress of Solitude near Rifle, Colorado. The 120-foot overhanging line had a working title of Flex Luthor, is 100 feet to the right of Caldwell';s other sport-climbing benchmark, Kryptonite (5.14c/d) - about F8c+/9a.
So how hard is his new route? "It's the hardest thing I've ever done," says Caldwell, who prefers not to give it a solid grade, but does allow that, "it's definitely harder than Kryptonite." Needless to say, it's likely one of - if not the - hardest sport climb in America. Look for a full report and stunning photos of the route in Issue 221 of Climbing. Previously the hardest and best-known route (as opposed to boulder problem) was the 60m power-endurance fest Just Do It (5.14c) on the Monkey Face of Smith Rock, first climbed by Jibe Tribout.

This post has been read 9,706 times

Return to Latest News


15 Jan, 2003
Other hard US sport routes: The Fly, Rumney NH - 9a. FA Graham. One repeat;Parady. Ghetto Booty, Mt Charleston - 8c+/9a. FA Legrand. Unrepeated. Kryptonite, the Fortress - 8c+/9a. FA Caldwell. One repeat; Hirayama (who suggested that it was nearer 8c/8c+. Some accusations have flown that this is because Legrand "comfortized" the route while trying it at the same time) Pyschedelic, St George - 8c+/9a. FA Graham. Unrepeated. Wonder how it fits in with those?
15 Jan, 2003
Rumney....New Hampshire... Mick
15 Jan, 2003
Well done that man, excellent choice of name too. PS but what's he done on grit?
15 Jan, 2003
Livin Astro wasn't on the list I saw (as it was stuff ABOVE 8c+!!). DG originally didn't rate it, but I think it's regarded as 8c+. Joe Kinder did the 2nd(?) ascent and put it down as 8c+ on his 8a.nu scorecard.
20 Jan, 2003
Bloomin' amazing when you consider he now has half a finger less than when he did Kryptonite.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email