UKC

34 day Solo on New Patagonian Big Wall

© John Middendorf
Dave Turner, noted for his solo climbs in Yosemite, now also will be known for his improbable success in Chilean Patagonia: the first ever solo of a Grade VII route; the longest time any single climber has stuck out a big wall in Chile successfully; a new route that is one of the country's most difficult big-wall lines. After thirty-four days alone on Cerro Escudo's overhanging east face, climbing capsule-style, in late January he finished the 1200-meter climb, Taste the Paine (VII A4+).

Cerro Escudo (2450m) is a tower located about two miles west of the Torres del Paine, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Chile. Its overhanging east face is a serious undertaking, successfully climbed twice before via The Dream (VII 5.10 A4+, 4,000', Breemer-Jarrett-Santelices, 1994-5), which some consider Chile's most difficult big-wall route.

See the full report on the Alpinist Website.


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7 Feb, 2008
Sounds like something far beyond from my concept of climbing. What's capsule style?
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