Malc Smith climbs Unjustified 8c - Malham

© Mark Kemball
Unjustifed (8c) at Malham is a rightwards extension from Something Stupid (7b) and was first climbed in 1992 by Nic Sellars. Nic used a sika hold and named the route Justified and Ancient. In 1993 Tony Mitchell 'The Climbing Doctor' eliminated the sika hold, renaming the route Unjustifed.

Malcolm Smith has had a return to sport climbing recently with ascents of hard routes in Scotland in 2007. He has just climbed Unjustified and says:

"Unjustified was one of the routes in Yorkshire I wanted to clean up, having not climbed it back in the day. Once I sorted a sequence and got the conditions it came together fast. It's not the hardest 8c I've done, it's probably a little easier than True North at Kilnsey, but it's certainly one of the best. I like routes I can do quickly but if I want to climb a 9a in Yorkshire I'll need to get ready for a siege."

Malcolm made the first ascent of Transform, another 8c extension on the Malham catwalk in 2000.

If Malcolm does set his sights on a Yorkshire 9a we wish him the best of luck.

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3 Jun, 2008
Can somebody tell me what a sica hold is please.
3 Jun, 2008
sica is a kind of glue i believe which people often use to cement loose holds or holds which have fallen off routes which are crucial. Cheers Tim
3 Jun, 2008
Cheers Tim, I thought it would be a glued hold.
3 Jun, 2008
I think it is sika rather than sica.
3 Jun, 2008
Cheers Mick, Now changed, you learn something everyday! Jack
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