UKC

Hans and Yuji Break The Nose Record AGAIN: 2:37:05

© Tom Evans
Hans Florine, 44, of Lafayette, California and Yuji Hirayama, 39, of Hidaka, Japan set a new speed record for climbing the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap yesterday with a time of 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds beating their own 2 hours, 43 minutes and 33 seconds set on July 2nd this year. (UKClimbing.com News Report)

Jesse McGahey, Yosemite Climbing Ranger, broke the news yesterday at Supertopo.com

"There were about 200 people out in the meadow to watch this lap on El Cap's Fast Track, and the boys didn't let us down! From high flying 360s and cartwheels to 80 foot run outs on 5.10 cracks, Hans and Yuji were on their game! "

YESTERDAYS ASCENT IN PHOTOS:

Big Wall Climber and El Cap Watcher Tom Evans has posted an illustrated report of Florine and Hirayama's record-breaking attempt at Supertopo.com, click -- El Cap Report 10/12/08. (Thanks Tom)

The normal time to climb the Nose is 3 days although it is frequently climbed in a day by well-prepared and fit climbers. The first ascent of the Nose was achieved by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore on November 12th, 1958. It took 45 days work on the route over 18 months. The final push took 11 days. The first one day ascent was by Jim Bridwell, John Long and Billy Westbay in 1975. It took them about 17 hours and 40 minutes.

Filmed by Japanese and American television crews, yesterdays ascent was even more remarkable as Yuji Hirayama had earlier in the week taken a 20 metre fall and had a badly swollen ankle. Last Wednesday the pair climbed the Nose in 2:48:23.

Florine and Hirayama simul-climb with Hirayama always in the lead. Florine devised this method as the most efficient, but it risky, Hirayama faces a 100ft plus whipper if he falls.

A History of Speed: 50 Years on the Nose

See this graph: A History of Speed: 50 Years on the Nose courtesy of Climbing magazine that illustrates ascent times of the Nose since the first ascent in 1958.

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Yuji Hirayama
Saitama-ken

Yuji Hirayama, born on February 23, 1969 is a Japanese rock climber who has excelled in most forms of the sport since the mid-1980s. He has won World Cups, climbed up to 9a+, set speed records on El Capitan,...

Yuji's Athlete Page 15 posts 3 videos



13 Oct, 2008
uji and partner started off at the base of El Capitan this morning at 10:20 am and topped out on the Nose route at 12:57:03 pm. It was crisp morning and there was a late fall feel in the air. Fun numbers: Today time to Sickle ledge: 18 minutes, July 2nd when we did the route in 2:43:33 it took 16:20 to get to sickle. Today time to Dolt Tower: 46 minutes, July 2nd: 56 minutes. Today time to Eagle Ledge: 1:04, July 2nd: 1:06 Today to camp 4: 1:28, July 2nd: 1:26 Today to top: 2:37:05, July 2nd: 2:43:33 Today we passed four parties along the route. Hans
13 Oct, 2008
History of Speed: 50 years of the Nose http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=99663
13 Oct, 2008
Is it just me?
13 Oct, 2008
Did you remove the other thread from the guy who got the scoop? Why? It's no doubt a good effort but I've not eaten chocolate since 1997 and I beat my record every day. High five! Mind you it probably explains why I'm so miserable. Cheers, Karl
13 Oct, 2008
yeah I seem to remember a guy posting the new record time late last night (way before climbing.com or yuji hirayama's own blog for that matter). Now that post seems to have disappeared...
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