This vertical gritstone wall features technical and reachy moves and is unprotected in its lower half. Ilkley homeboy John Dunne described this climb at UKClimbing.com, "At the start of the route a long dyno is followed by a move to very small edge, after this a huge rock-over takes you over to a small crimp. This is followed by a long move to a good hold and finally easier climbing takes you to the top."
Gerty Berwick had been attempted by many climbers in the last twenty years including Dunne, Steve McClure, Steve Dunning and Jerry Moffatt. However it took a global rise in bouldering standards and in vogue highball bouldering for this impressive wall to yield to Ryan Pasquill, who thought it Font 8A, at a very 'highball' bouldering height, or around E9 7a in old money.
Healthy UK Climbing Scene
The UK top end climbing scene is very healthy at the moment with last great problems falling and many impressive repeats including Jordan Buys' repeat of Dunne's Widdop Wall (E9 7a / French 8b / 5.13d ), Pete Robins and Ben Bransby's ground up repeat of The Promise, Dave MacLeod's repeat of James Pearson's Walk of Life in Devon, Neil Dickson's ground up of Margins of the Mind, a John Redhead E8 at Cloggy and a whole slew of hard grit repeats by visiting Americans Kevin Jorgeson and Alex Honnold some featured in these Videos UKClimbing.com Videos. See also: End of Year: Trad 2008 by Jack Geldard - Editor.
With so many talented climbers on the scene at the moment it looks like being an interesting year on the new routes and repeat front.
James Pearson has recently achieved an onsight of End of The Affair at Curbar and has been discussing grades and style at jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com
James is sponsored by The North Face, Five Ten, and Wild Country.