UKC

Magnus Midtbø interview

Pierre Délas, from Kairn, has made an interview with Magnus Midtbø, who has made the 2nd ascent of Ali-Hulk sit start extension, 9b.

What was the hardest thing for you to manage to succeed on the route?

There was a lot of hard things about this route. One of the thing was that I was working it alone the whole time, so I had to figure out all the beta myself. And for the first part you cant clip in anywhere, so you have to climb it from the beginning every time. Very tiring! 86 moves and so much hard to remember foot beta. The route is very hard for the core and back because all the moves are in overhang.

photo
Magnus on Ali-Hulk extension sit
© Magnus Midtboe

Dani has made a proposition in 9b, you are agree with him? Why this grade? Try to justify and compare with other hard routes you have done...

It is a lot harder than anything that I have tried before. It took me 40+ tries (three weeks). La Noeva Enmienda took me around 12 tries. I have never tried any other 9b, but this felt so much harder than any other route that I have done, and I think it is definitely my style of climbing.

You enter in a private club of 9b climbers. What does it mean for you?

It feels especially nice because I hadn't done anything really hard in a while. I would love to try other really hard routes!

The route is quite amazing with this cave and big roof and the first part without rope. Explain a little the different parts of it.

Yeah it can be a little confusing at first. I climbed the first part that is 8c+ (hard) with the harness on me. Then when I got to the rest, Sasha clipped the rope on me with a carabiner and I did the second 8c+-part with a rope. For me that seemed like the best way. I didn't want anyone to put on the harness for me, even though it would have been more comfortable to climb the first part without the harness.

How difficult are the hardest moves of the routes?

The hardest moves are 7C I would say. The thing that makes it so hard is the amount of moves. 86 moves with only two rests.

You have hade the idea to try it before going there or during the trip?

I knew that I didn't have so many hard routes left in Rodellar. I have been here three times before. Ali hulk sit extension was definitely my goal of the trip!

The route is not very high, not a "King Line". Half boulder style, half rock climbing style, because you have a rope. Does this matter for you? Also can somebody make the route without rope in your opinion?

Yeah, I think the route could be done without a rope. If you have a lot of pads that would be easier, since you wouldn't have to clip. The cave doesn't look very impressive at first. And that's why I saved it to last. But as soon as I started climbing in it I was amazed by all the spectacular moves!

photo
Magnus on Ali-Hulk extension sit
© Magnus Midtboe

What's your plan for the end of the summer?

We will go to Innsbruck to train for a week after this. Sasha will train for youth Worlds and I will train for the European Championships. This fall I don't think I will have so much time. Maybe try to put up some hard boulders or routes in Norway - or something in between like the Ali Baba cave ;-) Next year I will have more time and I hope to climb a lot in Spain and France - my two favorite places for climbing!



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