PHOTOS/VIDEO: Eiger Speed Record - Dani Arnold

27 year old Swiss climber Dani Arnold has speed soloed the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 28 minutes.

Arnold, who lives in the Swiss town of Bürglen, has been climbing since he was 14 years old. The young mountain guide has previously made a speed solo of the 36 pitch West Ridge of Salbit in one and a half hours, as well as climbing hard routes from Scotland to Patagonia.

Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011 © visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich

Last year he made a very significant first winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia, partnered by professional alpinist Stephan Siegrist. This February on a quick trip to Scotland, Dani Arnold onsighted the now neo-classic hard route The Secret on Ben Nevis.

The previous Eiger North Face record, held by Ueli Steck, was 2 hours and 47 minutes. Arnold has knocked 19 minutes off that already unbelievable time. A slight difference in approach is that Steck climbed the route entirely free where as Arnold made use of the fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser Traverse. Steck's ascent was also within the official season for a 'winter' ascent.

Arnold started the climb on April 20th at 09.05 am at the summer start on the first ledge at the base of the wall. He passed several teams on his speed climb and reached the summit at 11.33 am.

Recent conditions and weather on the Eiger have been exceptionally good, with a large boot track up the classic 1938 Heckmair Route and multiple teams on the face at any one time.

  • You can read more about the Eiger North Face in this recent UKC Article.

VIDEO: Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo

10vor10 vom 21.04.2011

Photo Gallery - Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo:

photo
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich

photo
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich

Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011 © visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011 © visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011 © visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold - Eiger Speed Solo 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold on top of the Eiger 2011 © visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich
Dani Arnold on top of the Eiger 2011
© visualimpact.ch | Thomas Ulrich


Dani Arnold is sponsored by Mammut


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25 Apr, 2011
Are there any rules on what constitutes an attempt at a speed record? While still a great achievement it can't be meaningfully compared to what Steck has done free in winter. Can this really be counted as 'the' Eiger speed record if its done in poorer style?
25 Apr, 2011
Not a new record in my eyes. Steck freed the whole route so that is the way it has to be beaten! (still, an incredible bit of climbing! Good effort!)
25 Apr, 2011
I'm sure Dani will be devastated by both comments above from such highly skilled, talented and respected alpinists. The Nose speed ascents are not free yet the route has a free ascent, does this detract from these achievements? Bottom of the face to top by any means, his is the fastest time... ergo a speed ascent. Ueli can nip back and beat it any time he is ready and yard on the fixed ropes if he wants.
25 Apr, 2011
I agree that it is exceptionally difficult to compare the two ascents in terms of difficulty or achievement though. Surely both outstanding feats, but too many factors come into play to truly say one is better than the other, though of course, it is easy to declare the most recent the quickest.
25 Apr, 2011
running along the summit ridge in crampons looks sketchy as f*ck to me!!! good job that man.
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