UKC

Broad Peak - No o2 - for Scott Mackenzie

© D Robinson
On 25th July 2011, British climber (and UKC Contributor) Scott Mackenzie stood on the summit of Broad Peak (8047m), becoming the 9th Brit to climb the mountain.

Scott climbed without using supplementary oxygen, high altitude porters or guides and the peak was his first 8000er.

Looking up at the summit of Broad Peak  © D Robinson
Looking up at the summit of Broad Peak
© D Robinson

Scott Mackenzie wearing summit medal  © D Robinson
Scott Mackenzie wearing summit medal
© D Robinson
"I'm so pleased to have made it to the top, a real team effort and an amazing experience." commented Scott.

Scott was part of a British/Basque team. Both Scott and Basque climber Koldo Zubimendi made the summit.

The team was made up of John Roberts, Scott MacKenzie, Duncan Robinson, Robert Adie, Ben Wolstenholme, John Mason and Basque climbers Koldo Zubimendi and Iker Iriondo.

Kenton Cool, UKC's favourite Everest climber and general all round good egg, was impressed with their efforts:

"Given that it is Pakistan which is always hard weather-wise, plus it was the first 8000m peak for any of the team, and they did it without support and no oxygen... I reckon that's a game effort! They should be well happy. Just goes to show that a small team can go, have fun, summit and come home all still as mates!"

Broad peak is considered one of the easier 8000ers due to the steady incline and being just above the magic 8000m mark, however it is not a mountain to be dismissed as 'easy'.

"Summit day was exhausting, we set off around 10 o'clock in the evening with a group of around 20 climbers from all over the world, climbed through the night and all the next day. Breaking trail was hard work and keeping warm was difficult. Having had no sleep the night before, reaching the summit was a relief and we were pleased to be turning round and heading back down the mountain." said Scott. "Arriving back at base camp after being on the mountain so long was a great feeling, a band of Pakistani porters playing music welcoming us back, the weather was warm and we had brewed 40 pints of Indian pale Ale to celebrate success on the mountain."

The rest of the team joined in with celebrations of the success. To get one member of the team the top is a great achievement, high altitude mountaineering is a team sport and the success shows a team that had been supportive and looked out for each other every step of the way. The rest of the team were hopeful they would also get a chance to go for the summit but as the weather was being so changeable there was also a realisation that the expedition was over, that the team would be returning without injury and remaining good friends, an even bigger achievement.

photo
Panorama looking out from camp 3 on Broad Peak (7100m)
© D Robinson

Climbing in the Karakoram is challenging in every way. Eating food without getting ill, moving without feeling you're suffocating, dealing with bureaucracy, travelling on flood damaged roads, arguing about the cost, transporting all your gear..... The whole experience is a challenge, difficult, tiring and at the same time unforgettable, unparalleled and all together incredible.

The team raised over £3000 to help Pakistan after the horrendous floods in 2010. If you would also like to help you can give by going to their page on Justgiving.com

photo
Scott and Koldo with head of the Pakistan Alpine club after summit sucess
© D Robinson


The team would like to thank their sponsors: Builders supplies, EBP Source and Dream Guides.

LINKS:

The team are planning a future expedition to make an ascent of Mount Everest in 2013, from the north side and are looking for more companies to get involved with sponsorship.


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31 Aug, 2011
well done Scott, Dunc and the rest of the team, inspiring stuff and well deserved. Now we all know climbing in the greater ranges is merely practice for grit bouldering so see you back here soon!
31 Aug, 2011
It's really awesome to see people climbing 8000 meters in good style like this. Congratulations on both the summit and the style, Scott!
31 Aug, 2011
well done that's terrific
31 Aug, 2011
Good effort by the team, a shame JR couldn't add to his haul of 8s: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=456688&v=1#x6374756 Does the head (general secretary) of the Pakistan Alpine Club not have a name?
31 Aug, 2011
Thanks, can try again soon... Still ticking the others off. His name is Karakoram Santa or Saad Tariq Siddiqi
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