UKC

David Lama Frees The Compressor RouteNewsflash

© Jon Griffith / David Lama Collection
Just days after Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk chopped the original bolts from the infamous Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, news is now spreading that Austrian climber David Lama has grabbed the first ever free ascent of the line.

David Lama  © David Lama
David Lama
© David Lama
Lama, who was heavily criticised for his efforts on the route last year, during which extra bolts were placed and gear left abandoned, has now seemingly stepped up to the plate and made an ascent that will surely go down in mountaineering history.

The ascent has not yet been confirmed by Lama himself, but things are moving so quickly on this hot topic, that we have posted this preliminary report. Current reports are indicating that the route is around 8a in difficulty and that Lama followed more or less the original line.

When full details of this ascent are available, a more in-depth report will be published on UKClimbing.com.

More current details:


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23 Jan, 2012
This was even more impressive as I managed to read it as "Dalai Lama Frees The Compressor Route" think I need more coffee.
23 Jan, 2012
Ha! Now that would be awesome! And quite possible that if I hadn't had my coffee I may mistype it like that! Anyway - amazing story this current Cerro Torre saga. Mountaineering history unfolding right now. Jack
23 Jan, 2012
I look forward to more details Jack. Do we know if David and Dalai decided to swing leads or whether David just seconded? I would not be surprised having seen an episode of Australian masterchef which had the Dalai Lama as a guest judge.
23 Jan, 2012
Being out injured I'm spending an inordinate amount of time reading up on stuff and speculating online. But this Dave Lama thing got me thinking...if the route has now been climbed bolt free should he not have left the first free ascent to someone with the balls to try and project it on just the gear?If difficulties are 'only' 8a then there are a number of wads who've proved they're capable of climbing at this standard on big routes using gear. Dave Macleod on the Longhope route for example, or those continental hippies on Mt. Asgard. In the same way as those guys last week won't be as well remembered as maestri, whoever steps up to the ultimate ethical ascent will probably now be a footnote to that spoiled brat Lama. Al
23 Jan, 2012
Presumably he did climb it without the bolts since they have been chopped.
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