UKC

Chris Sharma starts the autumn season with two ~9a's

© Boone Speed
Chris Sharma on La Tierra Negra, 9a/+, Margalef, Spain  © Boone Speed
Chris Sharma on La Tierra Negra, 9a/+, Margalef, Spain
© Boone Speed

Chris Sharma has started the autumn season in a very impressive way by climbing La Tierra Negra, 9a/9a,+ and La Nevera Severa, 8c+/9a.

Here is what he says about it:

So this route in Margalef "La Tierra Negra" is a line I bolted a couple of years ago just to the right of "Era Vella". It's super beautiful but since I always have a long line of projects I had never gotten around to sending it.

This season I decided to use it as a training route to get back in shape after the long hot summer. I figured "well, once I send this then I'll be ready to try something a bit harder, hehehe"

Also "La never Severa" is an incredible line that I bolted some years ago that Dani Andrada climbed the FA. It's dead vertical and it's like one big fat tufa that you have to blindly slap your way up on slopers. Super original!

So, now I'm just trying to step it up a bit more, I've got a couple of other routes in the works, a direct start to "La Tierra Negra" and a really crimpy line to the right of "La Dura Dura" [Chris' and Adam Ondra's super hard project at Oliana].

Dani Andrada on La Nevera Severa, 8c+/9a, Margalef  © Aitor Barez
Dani Andrada on La Nevera Severa, 8c+/9a, Margalef
© Aitor Barez

I think it's good to have short, medium and long term projects, things you can do in a few days, things that maybe take a few weeks and then ones that are more long term, at least that seems to be the best way for me to stay motivated and not lose psyche trying the same route over and over again. It's important to mix it up.

Well, there you have it, and as Chris puts it It's hard to not be psyched when fall arrives here in Catalunya, surrounded by amazing projects and lots of friends!

Sounds like we're in for another interesting Catalunya season, so stay tuned!


Chris Sharma has several sponsors including: prAna, Sterling Rope, Petzl, Walltopia, Evolv, Entre-Prises, Sanuk.


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17 Oct, 2012
La Nevera Severa looks steeper than "dead vertical" to me. I guess it's probably feels vertical relative to what he's used to!
17 Oct, 2012
Chris has obviously spent so much time on overhanging rock that his sense of balance has been altered. Do you think that when he's walking on a gentle slope uphill it feels like it's flat?
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