Rebecca Kinghorn (14) climbs Daniboy 8a

© John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn

14 year old GB junior climbing team member Rebecca Kinghorn has recently returned from a very successful trip to Kalymnos where she red pointed Daniboy 8a. This is Rebecca's first 8a and is generally regarded as a testing 8a and unlikely to be down graded. It marked the end of a great holiday where she also managed a quick ascent of Priapos 7c. Rebecca is the youngest Scottish female to climb this grade.

Rebecca cutting loose going through the roof on Daniboy  © John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn
Rebecca cutting loose going through the roof on Daniboy
© John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn

Rebecca worked the route over 2 days, managing 3 attempts per day as her fingers were getting trashed. She then took a day off and returned the following day. The first attempt was going well until she missed the crux move. She got back on and climbed to the top. she was looking very fresh and said that she hadnt been pumped at all-a good sign. She then rested and had another go but came off lower down. Still feeling fresh, she decided to rest and try again.

On the third attempt the rest of our group had gone and there were only 5 Swedish guys and a couple of German girls at the sector. Rebecca climbed through the roof easily and then powered through the crux, she clipped and had a shake and then climbed easily to the top. There were cheers and congratulations from the other climbers and her smile looked like it was going to last a while!!
Being quite small, Rebecca had to work out a slightly different sequence on the route. She is too small to get the knee bars and the crux move is too far. She found a tiny crimp out to the right which allowed her to then bump through for the good pocket.

Rebecca lowering off Priapus  © John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn
Rebecca lowering off Priapus
© John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn

Due to commitments with the GB junior climbing team, training and where she is based, this was Rebecca's first outdoor climbing this year.

Rebecca is sponsored by: Beta Climbing Designs, The Marcliffe at Pitfodels and the Robertson Trust.

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30 Oct, 2013
Great effort from Rebecca, particularly since she was too small to fit into some of the kneebars and had to work out short person beta for some of the sequences (my wife has had similar problems on routes and I know how frustrating she finds it when taller climbers just reach through!). Though I'm not sure how being based in Aberdeen can be used as an excuse for not getting outside to climb, especially given the summer we've just had!
30 Oct, 2013
Thanks Stuart. I know its a poor excuse!! Amanda seems to manage. Since we got back she has been keen to get out but the cold might put her off. Maybe you could recommend some routes for her. Cheers, Scott.
30 Oct, 2013
Great effort Rebecca. If you're looking for local stuff to have a crack at, the Sportlethan wall is bone dry (rare!). Also at Clashfarquar there is a really good route called Spice of Life if you're looking for something more stamina related.
30 Oct, 2013
Do people still think that being tall is an advantage in climbing, particularly climbing routes as steep as this ? How strange Re the OP - well done, reminds me of a future British champion who climbed her first 8a on Kalymnos at the age of 15
30 Oct, 2013
I think it depends on the climb and the angle. My wife is a significantly better climber than I am (redpointing 7c/7c+ to my 7a/7a+) but there have been climbs we've both worked which I've found easier than her because I could reach holds that she couldn't, or where I could keep my feet on good footholds while she had to use marginal smears to reach between the same handholds. I'm 6'3" with a +ve ape index while she's 5'5" with a -ve ape index.
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