The Story of 2 worlds, ~8C, by Toru Nakajima

Toru Nakajima has, despite far from ideal conditions, managed to repeat Dave Graham's The Story of two Worlds, F8C, at Cresciano, Switzerland.

photo
Toru Nakajima on The Story of Two Worlds, ~8C, Cresciano, Switzerland
© Nakajima coll.

On his fb he writes that:

I did The Story of Two World 8C today!!!! These days, it is too hot and greasy. It was almost 20 degree hot today, but I found good solution and manage to do it.

Dave called it the new standard for 8C back when he made the first ascent back in 2005, and at the time many considered it 8C+. Perhaps it was, but now, with better beta and shoes with sticky rubber everywhere, Dave recently speculated on the Louder Than 11 Talkshow that it's now more like an ~8A+ into an ~8A+, rather than the original ~8B/+ into an 8B+.

Be that how it may, but in that case repeating it in greasy 20 degree conditions is probably 9A...


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One of the strongest, most gifted climbers in the world. Toru can do it all; from hard grit ascents in the middle of summer, repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, hard sport climbing and even...

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13 Mar, 2014
nice one. "Dave called it the new standard for 8C back when he made the first ascent back in 2005, and at the time many considered it 8C+. Perhaps it was, but now, with better beta and shoes with sticky rubber everywhere" thank god climbing shoes have moved on from those pre-2005 days :p