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Stunning Sea Cliffs - New E7s in Cornwall and Wales

© Tom Bunn

Tom Bunn has made the first ascent of a striking new E7 at Tintagel Head in Cornwall. Hunter's Moon (E7 6b/c) is protected by good but fiddly gear, and follows a steep wall that is hidden out of sight from the SW Coast path, just south of Tintagel North 'Superbloc' Bouldering.

Tom Bunn on the first ascent of Hunter's Moon E7  © Tom Bunn
Tom Bunn on the first ascent of Hunter's Moon E7
© Tom Bunn

Tom Commented:

"After attempting another project near by, I remembered a tip-off about a stunning arete line, so we investigated and found the hidden Hunter's Moon. A week later I went to inspect the line with my ever patient girlfriend/ bossman, Elaine Budden (very late at night!) and we hammered in two stakes about 4ft into the ground. I inspected the route and knew I had to get back immediately. Returning with strong, young gun Alex Moore, we figured out the moves and gear on toprope before deciding to go for the lead. I dispatched the FA first go with Alex making a clean lead on his 2nd attempt, making the second ascent."

There are more photos of this stunning line at the bottom of this article. Tom took the photo shimself, even though he was climbing, by placing the camera on a tripod and using an intervelometer.


Alex Mason on the FA of Gimble in the Wabe, E7 6b, Rhoscolyn  © Jemma Powell
Alex Mason on the FA of Gimble in the Wabe, E7 6b, Rhoscolyn
© Jemma Powell
Further north on the ever fruitful cliffs on Anglesey, North Wales, Alex Mason has filled a gap at which many had gazed with his new route at Rhoscolyn. Gimble in the Wabe (E7 6b) tackles the steep wall right of the pumpy E6 Dreams and Screams. The second ascent was made just afterwards by Oli Grounsell who flashed the line.

Alex commented:

"After Smear Campaign I was spurred on to have a closer look at some of the gaps I'd seen. This was the first one I returned to. I abbed in to the lip covered in hairy sea lichen and after a few minutes unveiled enough holds for it to appear possible. Dropping over the lip there were some obvious, spaced jugs. I immediately knew it would be possible. I cleared off a lot of loose blocks and crumbly feet and worked a sequence that day but didn't have time to go for the lead.

As soon as I could I headed back over with a strong team. We all DWS'ed Electric Blue to warm up and I got straight on it. The ascent went well until I nearly dropped the crucial cam. Nerves steadied, I pressed on to the top to finish it off.

Oli Grounsell then made the second ascent with an impressive flash straight after, confirming the grade and declaring it three-star. I think the route will become pretty popular being quite a sporty style with big holds and bigger run-outs. Get to it!"

 

PHOTO GALLERY: Hunters' Moon E7:

Tom Bunn on the first ascent of Hunter's Moon E7  © Tom Bunn
Tom Bunn on the first ascent of Hunter's Moon E7
© Tom Bunn
Alex Moore on the second ascent of Hunter's Moon E7  © Tom Bunn
Alex Moore on the second ascent of Hunter's Moon E7
© Tom Bunn
Alex Moore on the second ascent of Hunter's Moon E7  © Tom Bunn
Alex Moore on the second ascent of Hunter's Moon E7
© Tom Bunn

 

Tom Bunn is sponsored by: Dewerstone Clothing and works as a climbing coach at The Barn Climbing Wall, and runs the website Rustypeg.

Alex Mason has a climbing blog here: Alex Mason Climbing


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17 Sep, 2014
Hunter's Moon looks amazing.
17 Sep, 2014
What an awesome sheet of rock, it's beckoning with beauty! Inspiring climbs & climbers
Great looking route and superb photography Tom, I hope you've got some other lines like this up your sleeve. Mason, yours looks alright too ;-)
17 Sep, 2014
Looks awesome Tom. Great job with the photo's too.
17 Sep, 2014
Looks fantastic Tom, top work all round mate.
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