UKC

Family man, new trad 8c by Sonnie Trotter

© Trotter coll./Rock & Ice

Sonnie Trotter on Family man, ~8c, Skaha Bluffs in British Columbia, Canada.  © Trotter coll./Rock & Ice
Sonnie Trotter on Family man, ~8c, Skaha Bluffs in British Columbia, Canada.
© Trotter coll./Rock & Ice

Sonnie Trotter, the crack aficionado with the southern Canadian accent, has made the first ascent of Family man, ~8c, in the Skaha Bluffs, British Colombia, Canada.

The project had been on Sonnie's mind for several years before he found the time to create a family to make any kind of sense to the route's name.

The ~15m 50 degrees overhanging line follows a crack, but according to what Sonnie told Rock & Ice most of the holds are actually on the face rather than in the crack.

The route can be divided into two parts, a ~7C+/V10 to a good hold followed by a ~7C/V9 to the top. Falling near the top is apparently a bad idea as this would give you a 50% chance of hitting the ground. Sonnie didn't fall though and succeeded on his first lead attempt.

Compared to his other hard trad first ascents, all of weighs in around ~8b+/c R, he says this one is probably harder, possibly with the exception of Cobra crack, but then again probably not.

He suggests soft 5.14b/8c.


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26 Oct, 2014
Why are you edited out the text part, where Sonnie said; "I'm going to give this climb a personal grade of soft (or Spanish) 5.14b (8c) and see where it ends up over time."
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