The seventh and final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Munich, Germany this weekend. Miho Nonaka and Tomoa Narasaki - both of Japan - took gold. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey finished in 2nd place following a stunning season of four Golds and two Silvers, earning her the overall World Cup title for 2016.
A 2nd place finish in the previous round in Vail already secured Shauna the overall IFSC Boulder World Cup title with one round to spare. She becomes only the third Brit ever to win a senior world title after Simon Nadin, who won the first ever World Cup Lead Climbing series held in 1989 and Fran Brown, two-time World Paraclimbing Champion. The GB team also finished in 3rd place overall in the National Team Ranking, following strong performances all year round.
Britain's Leah Crane achieved the best result of her season so far, finishing in 8th place, just outside the finals cut-off.
A qualification round which saw multiple 5-problem flashes in both the men's and the women's event brought the competition down to attempts rather than tops - resulting in some big names failing to make semis: Monika Retschy, Petra Klingler, Jan Hojer, Rustam Gelmanov, Jernej Kruder, Tsukuru Hori, Tyler Landman and Rolands Rugens.
In the finals, the first women’s problem (W1) was voided as each climber peeled off the volumes just before the top. W2 required both strength and precision, and four women solved the horizontal mantle to flash the problem. Five climbers powered through the triangular volumes of W3 to top, but Mélissa Le Nevé required one more attempt to do so than her competitors. Heading into W4, Shauna, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi were tied with two flashes apiece and three bonus holds. Neither Shauna nor Noguchi could solve the tricky slab start, and Shauna claimed 2nd only on countback to semis. Despite having the Gold in the bag with a countback to semis, Nonaka still found the bonus hold beyond the technical traverse and kept it together to top and win outright.
The first problem for the Men (M1) was powerful, but four athletes muscled up the volumes on the flash attempt. Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki separated themselves from the pack with tops on the technical M2. Narasaki further distinguished himself by maintaining his balance on the M3 slab, the only athlete to do so all the way to the top. M4 boasted a crowd-pleasing combination of crimps and dynos. David Firnenburg completed the problem in two goes for his home crowd, but the German was surpassed by Alexey Rubtsov who got the flash he needed for Bronze. Although Chon also snagged the final hold, he did not do so in few enough attempts to surpass Narasaki, who later also reached his fourth top of the day and took the overall World Cup title.
Watch the finals replay:
Full results below:
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2016