UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup Munich: Shauna Lifts the Cup!

The seventh and final round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Munich, Germany this weekend.  Miho Nonaka and Tomoa Narasaki -  both of Japan - took gold. Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey finished in 2nd place following a stunning season of four Golds and two Silvers, earning her the overall World Cup title for 2016.

Shauna Coxsey finally lifts the World Cup , 227 kb
Shauna Coxsey finally lifts the World Cup
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

A 2nd place finish in the previous round in Vail already secured Shauna the overall IFSC Boulder World Cup title with one round to spare. She becomes only the third Brit ever to win a senior world title after Simon Nadin, who won the first ever World Cup Lead Climbing series held in 1989 and Fran Brown, two-time World Paraclimbing Champion. The GB team also finished in 3rd place overall in the National Team Ranking, following strong performances all year round.

Britain's Leah Crane achieved the best result of her season so far, finishing in 8th place, just outside the finals cut-off. 

photo
Shauna topping out in Munich
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

A qualification round which saw multiple 5-problem flashes in both the men's and the women's event brought the competition down to attempts rather than tops - resulting in some big names failing to make semis: Monika Retschy, Petra Klingler, Jan Hojer, Rustam Gelmanov, Jernej Kruder, Tsukuru Hori, Tyler Landman and Rolands Rugens.

In the finals, the first women’s problem (W1) was voided as each climber peeled off the volumes just before the top. W2 required both strength and precision, and four women solved the horizontal mantle to flash the problem. Five climbers powered through the triangular volumes of W3 to top, but Mélissa Le Nevé required one more attempt to do so than her competitors. Heading into W4, Shauna, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi were tied with two flashes apiece and three bonus holds. Neither Shauna nor Noguchi could solve the tricky slab start, and Shauna claimed 2nd only on countback to semis. Despite having the Gold in the bag with a countback to semis, Nonaka still found the bonus hold beyond the technical traverse and kept it together to top and win outright.

photo
Miho Nonaka ecstatic with her win
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The first problem for the Men (M1) was powerful, but four athletes muscled up the volumes on the flash attempt. Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki separated themselves from the pack with tops on the technical M2. Narasaki further distinguished himself by maintaining his balance on the M3 slab, the only athlete to do so all the way to the top. M4 boasted a crowd-pleasing combination of crimps and dynos. David Firnenburg completed the problem in two goes for his home crowd, but the German was surpassed by Alexey Rubtsov who got the flash he needed for Bronze. Although Chon also snagged the final hold, he did not do so in few enough attempts to surpass Narasaki, who later also reached his fourth top of the day and took the overall World Cup title.

photo
Tomoa Narasaki on form to take the 2016 overall title
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

photo
Tomoa Narasaki takes Gold in Munich
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Watch the finals replay:

Full results below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2016

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Miho NONAKA JPN 5t5 5b5 4t4 4b4 3t7 4b8
2 Shauna Coxsey GBR 5t5 5b5 4t5 4b4 2t2 3b3
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5t6 5b6 4t6 4b6 2t2 3b3
4 Melissa Le Neve FRA 5t5 5b5 4t5 4b4 2t3 3b4
5 Stasa Gejo SRB 4t4 5b9 4t6 4b4 1t2 3b3
6 Julija Kruder SLO 4t4 5b11 3t5 4b7 0t 3b10
7 Fanny Gibert FRA 4t4 4b4 2t2 4b4  
8 Leah Crane GBR 5t6 5b5 2t3 4b6  
9 Mélanie Sandoz FRA 4t4 4b4 2t3 4b7  
10 Ayari Sakamoto JPN 5t6 5b5 2t4 4b8  
11 Franziska Sterrer AUT 4t5 4b4 2t4 3b8  
12 Katharina Saurwein AUT 4t6 5b7 2t6 3b5  
13 Clementine KAISER FRA 5t5 5b5 1t1 3b4  
14 Natalie Bärtschi SUI 5t7 5b5 1t2 2b2  
15 Chloé CAULIER BEL 4t5 5b7 1t3 4b9  
16 Evgeniya Lapshina RUS 5t5 5b5 1t3 3b4  
17 Lilli  Kiesgen GER 4t5 4b5 0t 4b10  
18 Tjasa Slemensek SLO 5t6 5b5 0t 3b5  
18 Mei KOTAKE JPN 5t7 5b5 0t 3b5  
20 Giulia Medici ITA 5t6 5b5 0t 3b12  
21 Tara Hayes GBR 4t6 4b4    
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Tomoa NARASAKI JPN 5t8 5b6 4t5 4b5 4t6 4b5
2 Jongwon CHON KOR 5t6 5b5 4t6 4b6 3t5 3b3
3 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 5t5 5b5 4t5 4b5 2t2 3b8
4 David Firnenburg GER 5t10 5b6 4t6 4b5 2t3 3b3
5 Mickael MAWEM FRA 5t8 5b7 4t4 4b4 1t2 4b8
6 Manuel Cornu FRA 5t7 5b7 4t6 4b6 1t3 4b9
7 Jeremy Bonder FRA 5t8 5b7 4t8 4b4  
8 Kokoro FUJII JPN 4t7 5b7 4t11 4b11  
9 Moritz Hans GER 5t7 5b5 3t4 4b5  
10 Alban LEVIER FRA 5t5 5b5 3t5 4b5  
11 Baptiste Ometz SUI 5t7 5b6 3t5 4b6  
12 Sergii Topishko UKR 5t8 5b6 3t7 4b6  
13 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 5t6 5b6 3t7 4b8  
14 Jakob Schubert AUT 5t7 5b6 3t7 4b10  
15 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 4t4 5b5 2t3 4b5  
16 Keita WATABE JPN 4t7 5b6 2t4 4b5  
17 Martin Stranik CZE 4t7 5b6 2t4 4b9  
18 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 5t6 5b5 2t5 4b11  
19 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI 5t12 5b9 2t11 4b14  
20 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP 4t7 5b7 1t1 4b8  
31 Tyler Landman GBR 3t4 4b4    
57 David Barrans GBR 2t3 4b5    
67 Nathan Phillips GBR 3t6 4b5    
Full results

 

 



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