UKC

Supercrackinette, 9a+, first ascent by Alex Megos

Alex Megos at Klättercentret Akalla, Stockholm, 76 kb
Alex Megos at Klättercentret Akalla, Stockholm
© Björn Pohl
Alex Megos has paid a quick visit to St-Légere du Ventoux in southern France, and even though it was a short visit, he didn't leave empty handed.

The area is probably best known for its legendary Tour de France stage over the Mt Ventoux, but lately quite a few hard routes have been established there.

Alex started off with a quick ascent of L'enfumette, 8c+, before making the first ascent of an old project of Quentin Chastagnier's: Supercrackinette in the  Praniania sector. This, the direct start of Crackinette, is the hardest route freed in the entire crag.
It took me three days and I think it's 9a+. About the sends in the East face, I did l'Enfumette but I think it's 8c+ (originally graded 9a by the man who did the first ascent Kevin Aglaé). Took me 4 tries. 
I did as well Concept Extension, 8c+.

When I congratulated Alex on his success, his first reaction was one of pure shock: 
How the heck did you find that out that fast????
Honest answer please. I didn't even post anything!

The answer is of course that my friend Pierre Délas of Fanatic climbing told me. No one has a more intimate knowledge of French climbing!

Alex went on to say the climbing in the area suited him well, with small edges and pinches. Old school in short. In this particular style, few, if any, can beat the young German.

Now it's time for Alex to start focusing on power as it's only six weeks left to this year's La Sportiva Legends Only where he will compete with Tomoa Narasaki, Kokoro Fujii, Jongwon Chon, Rustam Gelmanov and Jimmy Webb.

Alex Megos is sponsored by: Café Kraft, DMM, Entre-Prises, Patagonia, Red Bull, Sterling Rope and Tenaya



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