La reina mora and Broadway, both 8c+/9a, by Anak Verhoeven

© Seb Escanyon Richard

Anak Verhoeven on La reina mora, 8c+/9a, Siurana  © Seb Escanyon Richard
Anak Verhoeven on La reina mora, 8c+/9a, Siurana
© Seb Escanyon Richard
Anak Verhoeven has made very quick ascents of La reina mora and Broadway, both 8c+/9a and both at Siurana, Spain.

After a, for her, disappointing silver medal at the World championships in Paris in September, Anak went back to Belgium and hard training, as in doing laps on a long steep 8b+* on the huge wall at Puurs with 5kgs extra weight.

*Not sure if 8b+ is correct as she thought it was harder than Bronx, 8c+...

After this hard training, she headed south to Siurana where she made quick work of the 40m La reina mora, redpointing it on her first lead attempt after two days of working out the moves. This was the second female ascent after Alizée Dufraisse who did in 2012.

Next up was Broadway, which she did 3rd go after having broken a hold on the previous try. According to Anak it's 8c+ rather than 8c+/9a.

She also attempted La Rambla, and said she felt good on it, but no redpoint this time. She will be back.

Thanks to Pierre Délas/Fanatic climbing for the information.


Anak Verhoeven is sponsored by: La Sportiva and Petzl

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12 Nov, 2016
Very impressive, especially given the trouble La Reina Mora gave Ethan Pringle last year. But route wise she's climbing really well, really on hot on the heels of Janja Garnbret in the World Cups.
12 Nov, 2016
Fantastic work. La Reina Mora is probably the most stunning line I've seen...had lunch a couple of times at El Pati just looking up at this beautiful huge piece of orange rock.
12 Nov, 2016
Yeah a much better line than La Rambla which wanders somewhat. There's a great short video of Ethan Pringle's attempts and eventual success. It gives a good idea of what the route is like and just how psychologically hard doing routes of this difficulty can be. And thus gives Anak's quick ascent some perspective, especially when one considers how good Ethan is.
12 Nov, 2016
Really? ;-)
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