UKC

Clash of the Titans and Jungle boogie, both 9a+, by Megos

Alex Megos on Jungle Boogie, 9a+, Céüse, France, 122 kb
Alex Megos on Jungle Boogie, 9a+, Céüse, France
© Liam Lonsdale
Alex Megos has kept his cool in the heat and managed to climb two more 9a+'s lately: the FA of Clash of the titans at Götterwandl in Nassereith, Austria, and after a quick stop at OutDoor in Friedrichshafen, Adam Ondra's Jungle boogie at Céüse, France.

Liam Lonsdale, who's travelling with Alex on a project they do with Vertical life, writes:

...Alex Megos climbed the first ascent of a new 9a+ at Götterwandl, close to Nassereith, Tirol. The route, named 'Clash of the Titans' links the start of Juturna 8c+ (which Alex climbed on his first redpoint the previous day) into the 'Vulcanus' project (as yet unclimbed).

Of the route Alex says: I feel certain that this route is 9a+. The route consists of two distinct sections, the first part is around 8b+ /8c and leads to a poor rest that was enough for me to take a moment to shake out. This is then followed by the crux. The sequence involved around 10 moves of consistent 8A+ climbing. The moves are powerful and the holds are small.

The crux finishes with a throw from an undercling to hit the top crimp and then there is easy climbing to the top. This is the first time I have been to the area and the Götterwandl wall was absolutely amazing.

Regarding Jungle boogie, he said:

...one of the goals of my trip is done!
I've been on the route 3 years ago for about 15min after I came down from Biographie but skin must have been soft, holds were a bit sharp, I was maybe not too keen. Long story short, came down at the 4th clip and said I don't wanna try this. The video of Stefano Ghisolfi motivated me again though so yesterday I checked it out again and gave it 3 tries till I did it!

The business part of the route is the first half. After some long reaches on good holds up to the second bolt, ~20 moves of big moves on tiny crimps without any rests follows. The second half climbs an easy vertical wall no harder than 7c or so.

I've said it before and I'll keep saying it. It's about time this kid tried something proper hard!

Alex Megos is sponsored by: Café Kraft, DMM, Entre-Prises, Friction Labs, Patagonia, Red Bull, Sterling Rope, Tenaya and Vertical Life Climbing



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