UKC

Double repeat of Shantaram, Font 8C?

© Stefan Kuerzi

Niccolò Ceria and Norwegian strongman Martin Mobråten have both repeated Bernd Zangerl's Shantaram, Font 8C near Osen, Norway.

Niccolò Ceria on Shantaram, ~8C?, Osen, Norway  © Stefan Kuerzi
Niccolò Ceria on Shantaram, ~8C?, Osen, Norway
© Stefan Kuerzi

The ~25 move problem which Bernd has called "the best boulder in the world" saw its first ascent in June 2013, three years after it was showed to him by his friend Torstein (Eide?).

Regarding the difficulty, Bernd didn't say much in terms of a grade, but he said it was the biggest fight of his life and he now has it listed as '8C?' on his website.

Niky needed only three days for the repeat, while Martin seems to have been close for a long time before he seized the opportunity and jumped on the send train. Here is one of his almost successful attempts.

I asked Niky if he could share his impressions of the problem in terms of quality and difficulty:

It was definitively hard for me!

I hadn't been climbing on such a hard boulder since a long time, so I got some troubles during the first 2 days.

The sequence doesn't really have extreme moves, except for a couple of them which are awkward for my hips. The real crux was to link the sequences together, since it is probably the longest boulder I have done so far. My beta "only" counted 21 hand moves, and a lot of more footwork which forced me to stay on the climb for long.

Finally the key beta was to run as quick as possibile the middle part. Since climbing fast is not that much my style, I practised for an hour or so, trying to do that section very quickly. And that was the key to save a couple of seconds of climbing which made me able to send it.

I guess it can be one of my 5 top hardest so far. The line is decently good, but not my favorite from Bernd. It is a nice traverse which climbs pretty well and that's it.

I probably didn't like it that much because the rock is pretty dirty on in. Being in a cave it requires cleaning, but the first day I got there it was horrible: the holds were full of tickmarks and they were covered by chalky layers.

I loved the fact that the boulder is on a remote island where no human beings live nowaday and you have to take a ferry or rent a boat to get to the line.

It was anyway such a great achievement from Bernd putting up this huge stuff in 2013 and it is always nice to get inspiration from him, since he has been always one of my climbing heroes.

The next thing I want to do here is Bernd's "King size" [a ~7C highball put up in 2011] and that's definitively much better than every other boulder I have seen so far here in Vingsand. Can't wait to get on that one!

Niccolò Ceria is sponsored by: Flat hold, Friction Labs, La Sportiva and adidas

Martin Mobråten is sponsored by: Climbskin, DMM and Edelrid


This post has been read 6,965 times

Return to Latest News


Niky Ceria has spent much of the last decade travelling the world and climbing some of the hardest problems on offer. Originally from Northern Italy, Niky spends most of his time on the road and has a particular affinity...

Niccolò's Athlete Page 14 posts 1 video


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest