UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup: Moscow - Report

The second round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup series took place in Moscow, Russia this weekend alongside the first round of the Speed World Cup. A mix of old school setting and dynamic moves resulted in an exciting final, even if the problems for the women were perhaps slightly too easy.

Petra Klingler in the finals at Moscow., 159 kb
Petra Klingler in the finals at Moscow.
© IFSC/Eddie Fowke

Results below highlights video (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 4T4z 8 8 4T4z 7 5
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 2T4z 4 10 4T4z 7 5
3 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3T3z 4 4 3T4z 8 9
4 Petra Klingler SUI 2T4z 5 7 3T4z 9 10
5 Fanny Gibert FRA 3T4z 6 7 2T3z 2 3
6 Shauna Coxsey GBR 2T3z 2 4 1T3z 4 6
7 Sol Sa KOR 2T3z 5 7
8 Futaba Ito JPN 2T3z 8 6
9 Chloe Caulier BEL 1T4z 4 7
10 Katja Kadic SLO 1T3z 2 4
11 Mia Krampl SLO 1T3z 2 6
12 Mélanie Sandoz FRA 1T3z 3 6
13 Saki Kikuchi JPN 1T3z 5 7
14 Jessica Pilz AUT 1T2z 1 2
15 Stasa Gejo SRB 1T2z 4 2
16 Lilli Kiesgen GER 0T2z 0 2
16 Katharina Posch AUT 0T2z 0 2
18 Berit Schwaiger AUT 0T2z 0 3
19 Franziska Sterrer AUT 0T2z 0 4
20 Elena Krasovskaia RUS 0T1z 0 1
47 Jennifer Wood GBR Qual' 2T4z 10 14
57 Imogen Horrocks GBR Qual' 1T4z 6 17
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3T3z 5 5 4T4z 12 12
2 Jernej Kruder SLO 2T3z 5 6 3T4z 5 6
3 Gregor Vezonik SLO 2T4z 8 10 3T4z 6 9
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 3T4z 3 6 3T4z 9 18
5 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2T3z 5 7 2T4z 4 27
6 Gabriele Moroni ITA 3T3z 3 3 2T3z 7 14
7 Alex Khazanov ISR 2T2z 3 2
8 Keita Watabe JPN 2T2z 3 3
9 Tomoaki Takata JPN 2T2z 4 4
10 Rei Sugimoto JPN 2T2z 5 5
11 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR 1T3z 1 7
12 Martin Stranik CZE 1T3z 2 10
12 Nicolas Collin BEL 1T3z 2 10
14 Kai Harada JPN 1T3z 4 13
15 Sergii Topishko UKR 1T2z 2 4
16 Sean McColl CAN 1T1z 2 2
17 Kokoro Fujii JPN 1T1z 3 1
18 Yannick Flohé GER 0T2z 0 3
19 Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 0T2z 0 4
19 Eric Lopez Mateos ESP 0T2z 0 4
37 Nathan Phillips GBR Qual' 3T4z 9 11
41 Matthew Cousins GBR Qual' 3T4z 11 14
47 Tyler Landman GBR Qual' 2T5z 7 20
51 Aidan Roberts GBR Qual' 2T4z 3 16
63 William Bosi GBR Qual' 2T3z 8 13
83 Orrin Coley GBR Qual' 1T2z 2 3
Full results

Slovenia and Japan ruled the round, with each team earning a Gold, Silver and Bronze medal across the two categories. Janja Garnbret appeared on top form throughout the competition and took Gold ahead of Miho Nonaka. Tomoa Narasaki returned to the top of the podium, whilst Gregor Vezonik earned his first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal in his first ever final, finishing 3rd behind teammate Jernej Kruder.

Team GB's Shauna Coxsey placed 6th once again after making finals. She commented on Instagram: 'I am really looking forward to spending some time training now. I knew I wasn't back to full fitness but I am very glad I got to get out there and battle on the wall.'

The next round is in Chongqing, China on 4th May.

Full finals replay below:



Forums 9 comments

I think the pure PE crimp ladders also favour lighter climbers too. I remember Adam Ondra saying it's really hard for him to compete on the pure resistance comp routes because he's towards the upper weight for...
Good to see Tomoa win again finally. I think the final round really suited his style though. The crux of every problem involved a dynamic coordination move. The consistency of the top male competitors is truly...
Surely the argument against crimp ladders - apart from them being visually boring - is that the climbers these days are so strong, it's next to impossible to make the crimps small enough. So you have to start adding in...
Yeah well, there is obviously pressure to make the events more spectator friendly with the runny jumpy stuff  in boulders and the increasing use of bouldery volumes in lead. Personally I'd prefer to see the lead...
There's certainly crossover, but it's hard to see how to differentiate them more. Given that *actual* cutting edge bouldering these days involves falling off the same five moves over & over again in a dank forest...
I wonder if the physical requirements for both IFSC disciplines are really all that different these days. In some ways the repeated 4/5 minute efforts of bouldering look to have a bigger endurance requirement...

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